WITH afternoon teas replacing fish n chip suppers and stodgy bread and butter puddings losing out to dainty macaroons in the treat stakes, it seems the North-East is moving slowly away from its culinary roots.

A surge of interest in the art of pastry is sweeping the country and the mouthwatering and elaborate treats lining elegant counters of patisseries throughout the region show that the North-East will not be left behind come the pastry revolution.

Flying the flag for the region are much-loved establishments like the Angel’s Share bakery in Richmond - recently named runner-up in the popular television show Britain’s Best Bakery – and the Robineau Patisserie, a Darlington-based purveyor of all things delicious.

Whether it’s for creamy éclairs or finely crafted tarts, people are flocking to their local patissier to sample their tasty wares – with many staying behind to learn the craft themselves.

Television is partly to blame for the rekindled interest in all things pastry, with shows like Britain’s Best Bakery and the Great British Bake-Off attracting huge audiences nationally.

Celebrity chefs aside, the reasons behind the patisserie renaissance are multiple, according to those working at the heart of the industry.

Jane Robineau and her husband, French pastry chef Frederic, have seen their business go from strength to strength in recent years, despite – or perhaps because of – the recession.

A boom in custom means their tasteful tea room is constantly busy while cookery courses for hopeful future patissiers are sold out months in advance.

“People expect more these days,” says the elegant Mrs Robineau, by way of explanation.

“International travel is more common and people experience different ingredients and come away with higher expectations.

“They don’t want to settle for convenience food or supermarket mass-produced goods so they turn to places where they know food is cooked as it should be, where every ingredient is recognisable and can be tasted.

“They look to places like Paris and London and see what is happening there and they want it when they come back to the North-East.

“They want that high standard of customer service, the quality ingredients and to recreate that international experience.”

She added: “People might have less money at the moment but they still have the desire to treat themselves and their friends when they can and when they do, they want something they know is good quality.”

What she says is true enough - many families in the region are struggling to cope with austere times.

However, the recent recession has brought with it a wave of creativity, with people across the region turning to craftiness to make ends meet.

As a result, there’s a widespread revival of hobbies sweeping the nation – whether it’s picking up the dressmaking scissors or heading into the kitchen, there’s a reignited passion for do-it-yourself ways of saving money and spending leisure time.

Whether it’s fancy cupcakes on every corner or elaborate éclairs everywhere, it’s apparent that baking is forefront in the minds of the hobbying hordes.

Cookery classes – whether it’s pastry, pies or cakes – are fully booked up and down the country. Speculating on the rise of the hobbyists, Mrs Robineau said: “People are so busy these days that they crave leisure time.

“They want more time to do something for themselves and there is a definite move back to traditional crafts and socially, people will often prepare food for their friends rather than go out.”

It’s not just the adults enjoying more time in the kitchen, either. An emphasis on healthy eating and a focus on good food in schools means many of the region’s children are being instilled at an early age with the basic skills needed to become a master baker, chef or patissier in later life.

Some schools in the region even have baking rotas, where children pledge to bring something home-baked to class to share with fellow pupils.

Mrs Robineau believes inspiring the next generation is essential when it comes to spreading the word about good food and good produce: “It’s important to encourage learning basic cooking skills and it’s important to pass them on where possible.

“My husband and I are so passionate about food and we want to pass that on wherever we can – if we don’t pass on the wonderful things we have learned over the years, what is the point?”

This desire to hand down the passion for pastry is a reminder that the elaborate art of the patissier may be making its mark at the forefront of modern living but remains firmly rooted in old fashioned values.

Pretentious pastry, it is not – instead, it’s a delicious celebration of creativity that harkens back to the days when food was prepared locally - with love, care and without a long list of preservatives.

And not just that - the pastry renaissance is also about treats to brighten austere times and about honing skills that can impress and inspire.

Ultimately, it's about the enjoyment of food as a bonafide past time, whether it’s poring over delicate creations in the kitchen or sitting down to savour afternoon tea with friends.