I’D take a shrimp over a prawn any day, despite the fact that they’re fiddly to prepare, less easy to find these days and traditionally come from over the hill in Lancashire, shrimps are packed with flavour and remind me of holidays as a child in Southport.

As with so many good things we eat such as bacon, jams, marmalades and smoked fish, potting shrimps was a way of preserving food before the advent of refrigeration and freezing; although you can only keep this dish for a few days. It needs topping with clarified butter which you can prepare by gently melting some ordinary butter in a small pan, skimming off any froth that comes to the surface.

The clarified butter is the clear yellow upper layer that can be carefully poured off the unwanted solids beneath.

To be honest, this is so easy, it’s not really cooking. But if you can get your hands on some shrimps, particularly brown shrimps – even frozen ones, it’s worth doing yourself. But it’s available in the restaurant if you wish to try ours.

And an interesting fact: traditionally, Lancastrian shrimps are preserved in Danish butter. You’ll know the popular make.

Serves six

600ml of peeled shrimps (traditionally a pint of shrimps)

125g butter

A large pinch of powdered mace

A large pinch of cayenne pepper

Freshly-grated nutmeg

Six tablespoons of clarified butter

Place the butter, mace, cayenne and a little freshly-ground nutmeg in a small saucepan over a gently heat until melted.

Stir in the shrimps and allow to heat through for a minute or two but don’t allow to boil.

Divide the mixture between six small ramekins. Allow to cool and then chill in the fridge. To finish, pour a tablespoon of clarified butter over each and return to the fridge to set.

Delicious, and traditionally, served with brown bread and butter.

  • Oldfields Restaurants cookbook, Passion for Real Food, is out now and available in good bookshops. For discounted copies contact the restaurant in Durham on 0191-370-9595 or go to oldfieldsrealfood.com