Jean's silver service

WHEN sprightly pensioner Jean Barton says that for 50 glorious years, she's only dressed in black and white, it's plain to see just what she means. She's not in uniform when we meet - she still does 16 hours a week at Helmsley's famous Black Swan Hotel - but when it comes to her attire it seems the habit is entrenched.

Jean may be getting on in years but she's still groomed and very smart: she wears a black and white striped blouse with a black shift dress; her white blonde hair is in a bob and simple pearls lie round her neck.

Jean was a newly-married woman when she began at the Black Swan. She'd moved from Wales, where she'd grown up, and tied the knot with Philip Barton, and it was Philip's home of Helmsley where the couple made their base. As Jean explains, her first employment wasn't where she ended up.

"I went to work next door at the Crown Hotel first and then I came here," she says. "We're not sure of the date because the records only go back 50 years, but it's coming up to 50 years ago. I was young - I'd more or less just got married - and I came to do afternoon teas. At that time we had a lovely afternoon tea for two and six, which is 12-and-a-half pence."

When Jean first started her career she worked long hours for little pay - two shillings an hour - which then went up to a still-meagre two and six. She served the guests throughout the day, at all three mealtimes and in between, but the atmosphere was such that she took pleasure in her efforts.

"I was the youngest of the bunch then," recalls Jean. "It was very hard work, but we had a lot of fun. I worked for a long time with a lady called Stella Dowkes, who was here for 56 years, and a Mary Colley, and I've always worked as a team member. One of our chefs married Barbara Windsor and he brought her here one day. She was lovely."

Jean's early years at the Black Swan were at a wholly different time - the guests would always dress for dinner and the etiquette was strict. She still recalls the long-gone days when there was something on each week. "We had Ampleforth College, a very prominent Catholic school which is just down the road and the boys' parents came at the weekend, so we were always busy, busy, busy," she says. "Then we had Queen Mary's, which is the girls' school and their parents used to bring them here as well.

"When I first came here we had a big ballroom at the back and they used to do fabulous hunt balls. The farmers' wives used to make wonderful trifles and bring them down and they used to say 'mine is the one with the pink rose on. Do try it, it's wonderful'. They also had lots of Masonic dinners, the annual cricket dinners and the annual football dinners and all the local people used to come in."

The 15th Century former coaching inn was clearly quite the place to be and Jean has seen her share of stars and even got to know a few. In fact, when asked to give examples she supplies a lengthy list. "There are lots of people I can't remember. It's just gone by so quickly - it's gone in the blink of an eye really," she begins evasively. "We had very high-powered shooting parties and we had kings and queens. Princess Anne, Lord Lichfield and Lord Ashcombe used to come. This is the Lord Ashcombe Lounge (she gestures to her surroundings). He's come here forever and he still visits us on a regular basis."

Among the most prestigious guests were John F Kennedy's close relations. Although the president never came, the Black Swan welcomed his two children. "The Kennedys came about three times in the 1970s," explains Jean. "Their uncle was Prince Radziwill, the Polish prince. He was married to Lee, Mrs Kennedy's sister, and they brought the children here. There was very high security."

The current stars whom Jean has served include the actor Sir Anthony Hopkins and the celebrity chef James Martin. One who created an impression was the actor Simon Ward. "He used to stay here and he's very handsome," she says coquettishly. "He used to bring his children and I knew them quite well."

While Jean is happy to give names she draws the line at personal details. A true professional through and through, she knows the value of discretion. "I've always found people all right. I've always been spoken to with respect," is all she'll say about the guests. "I always think that we have a standard to keep up and I wouldn't like to say anything about anybody because I've been treated very well and you know your place really."

Her natural warmth and strict work ethic have led to glittering rewards. To Jean's surprise, in 2001, she found she'd won an MBE, then just last year she won an accolade for outstanding customer service. The day she got her MBE was pretty special all in all. "I went to London and I took nine of my family," she says. "Prince Charles presented me with the award and was absolutely lovely, then we all trooped to the Savoy for a special lunch. I had a fantastic day."

Now that she's passed retirement age, Jean could, of course, just leave her job, but even thinking of this option makes her eyes well up with tears. At least her legacy is safe, with her two daughters in the business and for as long as she is fit she plans to stay at the Black Swan. "I love what I do and they've told me that I can stay as long as I want and go when I'm ready, so I shall probably phase out," she says. "I've had a fantastic life here. I've been and seen and done things that only dreams are made of really."

Perhaps the key to her enjoyment and what has led to her success has been the simple and old-fashioned wish to put the guests' needs first. Her guiding ethos could be taught to every waitress in the land.

"I think the most important person who comes into the hotel is the person who comes through the door," says Jean. "I think we should look after them to the very best of our ability. That's the most important thing."

The Black Swan, Market Place, Helmsley, North Yorkshire, 01439-770466, www.blackswan-helmsley.co.uk