Review: New Board Inn, Esh Winning

BECOMING a parent changes everything – even one’s approach to eating out. “What’s it like for kids?” is a question I had rarely, if ever, considered until Mrs T and I welcomed our little bundle of joy into the world a few weeks back. The trip to The New Board Inn, a couple of miles to the north-west of Durham City, was one of our first public excursions with baby, so we deliberately chose a lunchtime rather than an evening and a good pub rather than a fine restaurant.

Whisper it, but it all went remarkably smoothly. Littl’un slept quietly in her car seat throughout, interrupting neither us nor anyone else, and our destination proved to be an excellent Sunday carvery.

The New Board Inn stands proud, high above Langley Park, with commanding views over the valley beneath. There are plenty of outdoor seats for drinking in the views in summer, but it was the beginnings of winter, so we naturally opted to go inside, where the extended windows in the U-shaped dining area look out onto the world beneath.

As well as the windows, the pub interior is very solid, lots of exposed brick, heavy beams supporting the low ceilings and dark wood tables. It was also busy. We had not booked – planning ahead is a luxury our new-found status may have made a thing of the past.

Virtually all tables were occupied, waiting staff scurried back and forth, and six to ten hungry diners were queuing for the carvery counter.

Thankfully, a table was available – and a good one too; not by the huge window, but by a smaller cousin, still offering the same stunning views over the Lanchester Valley.

We were greeted warmly and, after studying the extensive menu, both opted for the carvery: a choice of four meats, served noon to 4pm, priced £8.50. I went for turkey, while Sarah had a little turkey and a little beef.

The meat was superb and in plentiful supply. In addition, there were roast, boiled and mashed potatoes, all excellent, large and fluffy Yorkshire puddings, numerous varieties of vegetable, all particularly well-preserved given the buffet style of carvery food and gravy by the barrel.

It was all most enjoyable. I thought I had taken too much, but finished the lot. Sarah thought she had got it about right, but left a little.

The whole experience took me back to my childhood visits to the local carvery, now sadly closed, when my younger brother was the “master builder”. He knew exactly how to place his Yorkshire pud, parsnips and mash in order to cram the most on his plate (these were the days before “all you can eat” became widespread and return trips to the counter were not allowed).

But even he would have bowed in awe compared with a couple of thick-set guys on the table next to us. Their meals deserved architectural honours. And the demolition work that followed was pretty impressive too.

Baby still sleeping, we sat and enjoyed the afternoon, Sarah sipping her mandatory Diet Coke and I savouring a personal first – a pint of Coors Light. Around us, large families guzzled happily. It was noisy, but in a lively way, rather than intrusive.

And a special word of praise must be reserved for the New Board’s maitre d’-cum-foreman who constantly paced the floor, clipboard in hand, keeping a keen eye on when the next table might be available for his waiting hungry hordes. He performed his task expertly – quietly and discreetly, never making us feel rushed, despite our table having a “reserved” sign on it not of our doing.

Emboldened by this welcoming atmosphere, I dared a dessert, a wonderfully light and delicious banoffee pie (£4.25), and a coffee – much-needed if the lunchtime pint was not going to spell a snoozy afternoon.

Our total bill came to a very reasonable £28.35 and we left very happy with our visit. The Sunday lunch market is hotly contested, but the New Board Inn is a strong contender for your money.

New Board Inn, Hill Top, Esh Winning, DH7 9RL

Tel: 0191-373-6914

Website: thenewboardinn@yahoo.co.uk

Ambience: 3/5

Food quality: 3/5

Service: 3/5

Value: 4/5