IT might sound like a paradoxical thing to say, but not every pub located in the country can be described as a “country pub”. Plenty want to be, only to fall into the trap of pandering to the stereotype of what a traditional rural pub should be.

You know the type of place – an open fire that’s never been lit, fancy wooden flooring that cracks and stains as soon as a pair of muddy wellies is tramped across it, “rustic” food that’s come from the microwave aisle at the local Tesco.

It’s easy to pretend you’re running a country pub – but as countless landlords and landladies can attest in these testing economic times, it’s incredibly hard work to do the job properly. All of which brings us to the Davis family – most notably hosts, Duncan and Diane; head chef, Will; brother, John; sister, Jenny; auntie, Lynne and cousin, Cailean – who operate the Black Bull Inn, in Frosterley, located at the gateway to Weardale.

The Independent recently named the Black Bull among the top 50 country pubs in Britain, and for once, the bible of trendy London’s chattering classes has got it right when it comes to assessing the rural North-East.

Open the creaking wooden door, and it’s as if you’ve been transported back to Victorian times, when Weardale was lead-mining country and pubs were forbidden temptations amid Methodist calls for temperance.

The stone-flagged floors speak of history, while the small, cosy rooms and Victorian range fires provide an inviting escape from the wild weather raging outdoors.

The wooden beams add to the atmosphere, and when I visited with my wife on a Saturday night, the pub was positively heaving with every table occupied and the bar two deep.

You can’t fake that kind of ambience, and the authenticity was immediately aided by the selection of local real ales that filled the length of the bar.

The Black Bull supports the likes of Northumberland’s Wylam Brewery, the Allendale Brewery from the top of the Dale and the Consett Ale Works from across the hill as they gradually reclaim some of the beer market from the national super groups that have previously dominated the tap room. On the evidence of the two pints of Wylam Angel that stirred the appetite, it’s a welcome return to local roots.

A pub such as the Black Bull is always going to stand or fall on the quality of its food, and thankfully this was another area where local and rustic did not mean lacking in quality.

While too many country pubs assume it’s quantity rather than quality that counts – both in terms of menu and portions – the Black Bull serves up a limited number of dishes that are executed with polish and technical excellence, rather than an extra couple of potatoes and a bowl-full of carrots and peas.

That’s not to say you’ll leave feeling hungry, but it’s the standard of the local produce that stands out here, and the dishes are all the better for that.

From a choice of four starters, I opted for a smoked mackerel and honeyed walnut salad, while my wife went for leek and potato soup with warm bread.

The salad was excellent, simple and uncluttered, but featuring tasty hunks of mackerel and a delicate honeyed dressing with walnut additions. The soup was hearty and comforting, and the waitresses deserve credit for ensuring that the bread was topped up when required.

THERE were six main courses to choose from, ranging from the duo of Weardale lamb at £19.95, which my wife chose, to the vegetarian offering of tomato and basil cottage pie, which was priced at £11.95.

I opted for roasted pheasant, with walnut and apricot stuffing, mash, red cabbage and root vegetables – another simply-presented dish that worked wonderfully well. The pheasant was nice and succulent – in my experience, it can all too often be served too dry – and the red wine gravy complemented the rest of the dish extremely well.

The lamb was the real success, with a rack that was served pink, accompanied by a slow-cooked shoulder, which oozed with flavour.

We shared a Malteser brownie, with locally-produced Doddington’s ice cream for dessert, and paired it with the Black Bull cheese board. Priced at £8.95, this was the only real disappointment because it was impossible to tell whether the cheeses were also local or had been bought in bulk from a supermarket.

Clearer identification would help.

That’s a fairly minor quibble at the end of an otherwise excellent night. With a couple of beers and glasses of wine, the final bill came to a shade over £70, not at all bad for the quality of the food, drink and ambience.

We left with full stomachs, ruddy cheeks and an invitation to the one of the occasional folk nights that the pub arranges and advertises on its website. Country folk. They’re the best judge of a rural pub, and they certainly seem to like the Black Bull.

Food facts
The Black Bull Inn, Frosterley,
County Durham. DL13 2SL
Telephone: 01388-527784
Email: blackbullfrosterley@gmail.com
Website: blackbullfrosterley.com


Opening times:
Thursday 11am-11pm (Lunch 12-3, Dinner 7-9),
Friday 11am-11pm (Lunch 12-3, Dinner 7-9),
Saturday 11am-11pm (Lunch 12-3, Dinner 7-9),
Sunday 11am-5pm (Lunch sittings 12 and 2.30)
Quality of food: 5/5
Service: 5/5
Ambience: 5/5
Value for money: 4/5