Peter Barron relives childhood memories in Whitby and tries a restaurant celebrating an anniversary

IT’S a case of being spoilt for choice when it comes to eating out in Whitby – there are more restaurants, cafes and pubs than seagulls hovering for scraps. The Magpie and Trenchers have been done to death over the years and there’s only so much you can say about fish and chips anyway.

Looking back from the far side of the Swing Bridge, directly opposite the smiling polar bear who sits on top of Holland and Barrett’s health food shop, my eye was caught by a banner.

Hanging beneath the first-floor windows of a neat little place called Gatsby’s, it proclaimed: “25th anniversary – newly refurbished”.

“Let’s give that a go,” I shouted to my mum and my favourite cousin Kath, who was up from London to revisit some childhood holiday haunts and remains the proud owner of a Whitby lucky duck bought in the 1970s.

Gatsby’s boasted the further incentive of a “Food cooked to order” sign, and a request was rather grudgingly granted to sit upstairs, so we could survey the splendid views of the harbour and St Mary’s Church on the crumbling clifftop.

“Those seagulls are the size of dogs,” observed Kath, who’s more used to skinny Trafalgar Square pigeons.

As you might expect, Gatsby’s is the kind of place that likes its old movie stars to adorn the walls. Audrey Hepburn, Marilyn Monroe, Marlon Brando and James Cagney feature prominently and, as my dear old mum was quick to point out: “They’ve got Humphrey Bogart coming up the stairs.” Imagine that – of all the joints in all of Whitby.

Downstairs was pretty busy, but we were the only diners upstairs, where the floors are wooden, a lonely palm tree stands at an awkward angle, the Rat Pack look down from the wall, and George Michael was singing “I know you were waiting for me”.

Were weren’t waiting long at all as it happens.

The service was swift and friendly, although there were one of two old tea stains on my saucer and cup.

Determined to avoid the predictable seaside fish and chips, I chose the steak and ale pie in short-crust pastry, served with chips, peas and gravy. Nothing special but I had no complaints.

My Mum went for the breast of chicken, marinated in olive oil, soy sauce, white wine and herbs, served with a crisp salad and a jacket potato.

“This is lovely,” she declared, confirming that the salad was indeed crisp and the potato fluffy.

Kathleen opted for the Whitby seafood platter of succulent Whitby scampi, queen scallops and goujons of white fish, all coated in breadcrumbs, deep fried and served with a lemon wedge, chips and salad garnish.

“Fairly average” was her verdict and there was a big black mark when she pulled a hair out from between two goujons.

The bill for the three of us came to a perfectly reasonable £28.25 and, eager to do some exploring, we declined dessert.

Instead, like kids on holiday, we splashed out on a mixed bag of assorted traditional sweets – including long-forgotten coconut tobacco – and an ice-cream from the shops at the foot of the famous 199 steps.

To be honest, it wasn’t great Gatsby’s, but it wasn’t bad either, and a visit to Whitby is never a disappointment.

Food facts

Gatsby’s, 2 St Ann’s Staith, Town Centre, Whitby YO21 3PW.

Telephone: 01947-820053

Food: 2/5

Service: 3/5

Surroundings: 2/5

Value: 3/5