DRIVING up Arkengarthdale at night, it’s striking just how remote the valley is. There are a few glimmers of light seeping out from behind curtains in Langthwaite and from isolated farmhouses, but otherwise it’s pitch black.

When you finally reach the Charles Bathurst Inn – generally known as the CB – you arrive blinking into the brightness of the pub’s outside illuminations.

The area is no-longer overrun by wolves as it was in Mr Bathurst’s day, but we were still glad to arrive, get out of the darkness and in through the door.

It’s been nearly 20 years since I was last in the CB. Back then, it resembled a youth club with teenagers from across the Dales descending by the car-load on a Saturday night to drink, dance and, sometimes, have a scuffle.

These days, the website boasts of more discerning visitors with talk of royalty, celebrities and members of the aristocracy popping in from time to time.

It’s Saturday night when we visit and the pub is busy with what appears – and sounds to be – a good mix of locals and visitors.

Inside, the CB is as you would hope, with stone floors and a roaring fire in the bar. Although there are dining areas in the bar, most of the tables are in adjoining rooms, which are bright and unfussy.

Service at the CB is equally without pretensions.

All dishes are listed on a mirror above the fire, you order food at the bar and if you want drinks during your meal, you get them yourself.

This lack of pampering might not be to everyone’s taste and I’m guessing it limits staff tips, but once you realise that’s how it’s going to be, you get on with it. I just hope the royals and celebrities don’t get special treatment.

Sarah started with supreme of chicken with asparagus and grape salad, and sweet mustard dressing. She reported that the asparagus was the highlight, although every aspect was good.

I went for the twice-baked Wensleydale cheese soufflé with walnut, apple and celery salad. Soufflés are difficult to make, but this one was well worth the effort. I even enjoyed the celery which has been a nemesis since childhood.

For main, Sarah chose foreshank and neck of lamb with swede mash and a rosemary sauce. I’ve seen bigger shanks, but there were no complaints from the other side of the table.

The meat fell off the bone, she said.

After choosing cheese from Wensleydale for starter, I stayed local for my main, opting for Arkengarthdale red grouse served with traditional trimmings.

These included game crisps, bread sauce and the bird’s heart served on bread. The grouse arrived pink and tasted strong, gamey and magnificent – even the offal. The chips were a little soft, but the dish was all about the grouse.

For sweet, Sarah chose chocolate brownie, served with chocolate sauce and ice cream, while I had chocolate and Malibu tart. Both were excellent.

After our meal we chatted with a friendly couple on the adjacent table. Steve and Andi, from Brighouse, in West Yorkshire, had quite a story to tell – they got together six weeks ago after first dating and then splitting up 16 years ago.

They loved the CB, although Andi said her grouse would be her first and last. “Too fiddley,”

she said.

The bill, including a pint of Black Sheep, a glass of house red and a soda water, came to £62.75. Given that the grouse alone was £18.50, we thought this was good value.

Heading for home, the darkness didn’t seem nearly so daunting after an evening of good company and excellent food.

Food Facts:

The CB inn, Arkengarthdale, Richmond, North Yorkshire, DL11 6EN.

Tel:01748-884567

Email:info@cbinn.co.uk

Food:4/5

Service:3/5

Ambience:4/5

Value:4/5