LEGEND has it that my grandfather was born on a boat on the way to America after his parents fled persecution in the Czech-German border region. Goodness knows what tramp steamer he arrived on, but the chance to repeat his journey in the ocean's finest cruise liner, the Cunard line Queen Mary 2, was an opportunity too good to miss.

At just after 3am, this incredible vessel measuring 3.5 acres powered up the Hudson River to moor for only the second time ever at Brooklyn, New York. Dawn broke over a view of the green-glowing Statue of Liberty and nearby Wall Street.

Behind us lay a six-day cruise across the Atlantic which the expression 'unforgettable' hardly covers. Even in April, when a dip in the outdoor pool and Jacuzzi are for Scandinavians only (there are 27 aboard, plus four Finns), with one of the QM2's four mighty stabilising and steering pods out of action, there's hardly a hint of seasickness.

Two days of roughish seas were viewed through a myriad of vantage points with by far the best being The Library where you can read one of 8,500 books or print-outs of the day's newspapers or use Internet terminals while gazing out over the bow.

There's also a certain reassurance for North-Easterners that Captain Bernard Warner is from Wetherby and hotel manager David Stephenson was born and raised in Darlington. Both men are bringing enormous experience to bear on what some will see as 'the trip of a lifetime' while others can regularly splash out on Grand Duplex accommodation costing from £25,639 to £13,999. But the low season bargain hunters can grab an "all meals and non-alcoholic drinks" cruise for under £1,000. With a flight to or from America and New York accommodation for two nights included in the price, there's the distinct impression that cruisers are gaining incredible value for money.

"Travelling like this is actually cheaper than flying to and from America for a three or four night stay," explains David Stephenson, who is in charge of staffing the QM2's amazing array of restaurants, eating areas and bars, plus the small army of cabin staff keeping our rooms spick and span.

Let's face it, the food and drink is the most important part of this cuisine-powered cruise and if I hadn't have dieted before making the trip, the half stone I put on would have been a severe shock to the wardrobe I'd dragged all the way to Southampton.

The all-male press group I was with, freed of the raised eyebrow of a disapproving female partner, over-indulged in terms of menu, drink and conversation which included, much to my astonishment, the topic of 'famous people I have slept with'. Fortunately, I had the good sense to keep quiet on this occasion.

Chilled asparagus and celery soup, pan-seared halibut and warm apple strudel with brandy sauce were just three choices on the opening night. We were lucky enough to be using The Princess Grill - the second poshest next to the 200-capacity Queen's Grill - which seats 178. The bulk of passengers (1,347) choose between the Britannia Restaurant or the less formal King's Court, which offers self-service choices split into choices of Italian, carvery, Asian and Chef's Galley, which has the added bonus of a live demonstration of food preparation via closed circuit TV.

The most difficult choice facing any passenger actually comes before you set foot on board the QM2 at the well-organised QE2 dock in Southampton. Are you entering into the spirit of dinner jacket and evening gown appearances, especially when there's an invitation to drink early evening cocktails with the captain awaiting? Having opted to leave my ancient DJ behind and make do with suits and smart evening wear, I can honestly say I regretted the decision. Cunard thinks of everything, of course, and mixed in with the eight Mayfair shops is a hire service available for those who have second thoughts.

The restaurant for wallet-benders to select is Todd English, a top US name not that familiar to the English strangely, where a personally cooked meal takes a minimum of three hours. But be snappy. The reservations-only area is booked quickly on each voyage.

Friendly cabin staff - I think I wore out 'good morning' in two days - bustle constantly to keep accommodation shipshape and passengers also have the opportunity to use interactive TVs, which allowed me to keep in touch with home by email, and view films, satellite channels and the fascinating morning show featuring cruise director Ray Rouse. He caused quite a stir by interviewing Bess Cummings, one of a few child survivors when the British liner SS City of Benares was torpedoed by a U-boat in 1940. Bess's husband had died and left her enough money for an emotional trip to lay a wreath for the scores of victims of the ship containing 400, including 90 evacuee children.

Cunard helped Bess mark the occasion at the appropriate moment and there was also an announcement as the QM2 passed within 17 miles of the spot where the Titanic was lost. A little more Northern Echo history here as the iceberg collision claimed the life of renowned editor, W T Stead.

The threat of icebergs held few fears for Captain Bernard Warner on a bridge that appeared big enough to hold a badminton tournament. He started out sailing a boat with his father off the North-East coast at Sandsend and Whitby and still visits regularly. He's welcomed everyone from Her Majesty The Queen to Carol Thatcher on board, plus another renowned former Northern Echo editor, Harold Evans.

"I was much aware of Captain Cook when I was growing up but I'm not in that league," says the master of one of the biggest ocean-going liners modestly.

Down below on this 13-deck pleasure palace with four stairways and lifts, there's everything to try from 'new three card poker', which I always knew as brag, in the casino, to traditional bingo. You can watch a £33,000 work of art being auctioned, take up ballroom dancing, join a RADA workshop or relax and view the nightly shows.

As for me, after a gym session I stepped out on the first hole at St Andrew's and crashed a drive straight down the middle. Typically, the second was a short, right 5-iron into the famous burn. This was a simulation, thank goodness, but probably the best $25 I've spent in ages.

I'm sure the ghost of my grandfather didn't mind me not tracking down his entry on Ellis Island on this occasion... there's always next time.