A paradise for real foodies

These are so beautiful to look at that they are almost too good to use - except that they are not just stylish but wonderfully functional as well.

"Other countries have a different approach to cookware, an appreciation of presentation and design. Not just in Europe. I've been in shops in South America that would put even Oxford Street to shame," says shop owner Andy Atkins.

"Here, cookware was always an extension of hardware. So when we opened the shop, I think the landlord was expecting to see mops, buckets and brushes out on the pavement."

Andy and Mary Atkins opened the shop four years ago. Andy had been MD of a technology company but had a background in the food industry.

"And we are both big foodies. We cook a lot and enjoy cooking so it was something we'd been thinking about for some years. Then suddenly it all came together. We made the decision at Christmas and opened four months later," he says.

Cookery programmes might be big business on television but the truth is that as a nation we are actually cooking less than ever.

"There are three sorts of people, " says Andy, "Those for whom cooking is a lost art and who live on convenience foods. Then there are those who use convenience foods in the week but who enjoy cooking at weekends and for special occasions. And then there's a third group who cook often and regularly and who really care about their food, the real foodies."

Add to that local chefs, craft bakers and people buying wedding presents and the shop caters for them all.

Many of their products come from abroad - France, Italy, Poland, Germany, Japan. A big seller at the moment is a range of ceramic casseroles, by Emile Henry, that don't weigh a ton and and go on the hob.

Germany makes some of the world's best knives but a new Japanese brand, I O Shen, is favoured by top chefs such as Heston Blumenthal and Gary Rhodes. "They're half the price of the top German knives, and we are one of only a handful of retailers to have them," says Andy.

A loaf of bread on the counter is not to stave off starvation but to try the knives. Impressive.

The couple try many of their products in their own kitchen.

"It has to do the job," says Andy. "It doesn't matter what the manufacturer says the supposed benefits are, they have to deliver that promise and there's only one way to find out."

The shop has its fair share of gizmos and gadgets, including the latest must- have, a raclette. Originally fromSwitzerland, it's a peasant food involving cheese, is a step along from fondue and is now becoming posh and on all the best wedding lists, though I bet a fair few will end up in the back of the cupboard.

But at least Britain still leads the world in innovative bakeware, much of it made proudly in Birmingham.

"As well as all the traditional items, manufacturers are thinking about the way we bake today and coming up with some great products," says Andy.

Typical is an ingenious baking tray that means you can effortlessly make a whole batch of tiny, favourite-style small cakes. So obvious. So simple.

Last year the Atkins launched the shop on the Internet site and now a considerable chunk of their trade comes via the net.

"We get many customers from the south of England," says Andy. "Some live within reach of very good cookshops, but it's easier to order from us.

"Some people think that the Internet is taking trade away from town centre shops, but in this case it's making it easier for us to keep the shop here."

We are, say Andy and Mary, very lucky in this part of the world.

"We have so many good local producers who really care about the food they produce. We have so much good food right on our doorstep," he says.

And, of course, a kitchen shop that stocks everything you need to cook it.

So no excuses for not eating well.

l Cooks and Kitchens, 8 Grange Road, Darlington. Tel (01325) 352111. They also have a small outlet at the Lakeside Farm shop near Scorton. Also on www.cooksandkitchens.co.uk.

www.thisisthenortheast.co.uk/news/griffiths.html