In the second of four articles reporting on North troops in Iraq, Olivia Richwald meets soldiers from The First Battalion The Royal Regiment of Fusiliers, in Basra.

THE First Fusiliers, also known as the Desert Rats, were part of the British contingent that invaded Iraq when war was declared in March 2003.

Three years later and they are back in the desert, this time on peacekeeping duties as the British Army tries to hand control of the tattered country back to Iraqis.

Soldiers have been working with the Iraqi police forces -teaching them how to use weapons, patrol, search homes, make arrests and protect themselves with basic skills such as first aid.

It is a more rewarding job, but has many challenges - especially in the wake of the footage of British soldiers abusing Iraqis that was recently televised across the world.

Lance Corporal Stuart Wells, 23, from Newcastle, said: "When we crossed the Kuwait border into Iraq on March 21, 2003, it was a relief. It was exciting to take Basra.

"When we first went in there, everyone was so glad to see us, now it is an everyday occurrence."

The soldiers have been taught a little Arabic to help them communicate and have learned about the customs and religious festivals that they may encounter while they are mixing with locals.

Lance Corporal Chris Newell, 21, from Ferryhill, County Durham, said: "It is more intense and more dangerous this time because the people out there are getting more confident."

L Cpl Wells said that the type of threat soldiers were facing had changed.

"It is a 360-degree threat now; there is nothing I can do as a trained soldier to deal with a bomb going off next to me.

"I have lost two of my closest friends, but you just get on with it. You have to do your job to the best of your ability."

I joined Corporal Billy Hills, 29, from Hebburn, South Tyneside, and some of his soldiers in the back of a Warrior tank -a bulletproof cage that rattles your bones until they are aching.

We rumbled along the roads from the Shaibah base, near Basra, where the Fusiliers are stationed, to the headquarters of the Iraqi border control police - a once-grand house, now washed out and drab, which used to belong to Chemical Ali, one of Saddam Hussein's henchmen.

In the driveway of the house, the hulk of an upturned, rusty car was disintegrating slowly. But in the sand outside, about 25 Iraqis police officers in a mish-mash of uniforms were gathered on a bench watching a British solider demonstrate restraint techniques.

Captain Johnny Austin said: "They are keen to learn and take on new skills and it is a pleasure teaching them. They are showing really good signs; our concern is will they cope when we leave?"

The British soldiers communicate through Iraqi interpreters.

Sergeant Tim Wright, from London, is co-ordinating first aid training.

He said: "Most of us have done numerous tours, but to see this and help them get up to a basic standard so they can take over the running of the country is worthwhile."

As the Warrior rumbled back to base, Cpl Hills said: "The streets are very different to the last time we were here. When you walk through Basra city, you can see Internet cafes; they are really coming on now.

"If you took the rubbish, dirt and filthy mess away, Basra would be a nice place. It must have been a nice place before Saddam Hussein, but it was allowed to fall to bits."

Fusilier Stephen Scott, 23, from Whitley Bay, South Tyneside, said: "The Iraqi Army is coming on leaps and bounds, you can really see the difference. It is rewarding because it means we will be able to get out of here."

Fusilier Gavin McQueen, 22, from Sunderland, said: "I think we are serving a good purpose out here. Some people do not like us, but most of the people out here are friendly and they are glad we are here to make them feel safer."

Back at base, Major Jed Murphy, 33, from York, was working with some of the interpreters. He said: "The Iraqi people need our support physically through soldiers, and they need the support of their own people.

"It will take some time to reach the end state, which is a free and peaceful Iraq, but if we can match the Iraqis' courage and determination to see this through, then Iraq will be a peaceful and democratic country, I have no doubt."