If vintage glamour or the beatnik look is not your style, sprinkle a little Russian flavour in your wardrobe, says style guru Nadia Clark
WELL I've just hot-footed it off the plane back from New York (get me!) and there is one trend which is taking the Big Apple by storm - the Russian revolution!
I recently bought a cashmere coat with brocade and velvet from a fantastic boutique in Antwerp, which I've been dying to wear, and I thought this would be the perfect opportunity. So I flew out in my coat complete with Cossack hat waiting for the onslaught of snow and probably some odd looks from the locals, but neither came!
All the Manhattanites had already caught on to the imperial opulence of this new look, probably because of Moscow's fashion week last month. Generally, our sisters across the pond are not as experimental as us Brits and they stick to their preppy Gap look, but this trend has captured their imagination. However, the Park Avenue Princesses ('PAPs' as they like to be known - think Charlotte in Sex and the City) only attempt this look if it comes straight out of the designer boutiques on Fifth Avenue.
These PAPs were obviously front row at Fashion Week, as the autumn (or should I say fall?) catwalks were bursting with Russian models draped in velvets, brocades and splashes of gold as designers took inspiration from 19th century Russia. There was a definite nod to Yves Saint Laurent's sensational 1976 Russian Ballet and Opera collection but this time round, the designers gave the look an exotic, chic feel.
Mui Mui was very heavy handed with the folksy embroidery, all topped off with rustic head scarves in rich colours, especially opulent purple. They even focused the tactile embroidery on their accessories, including a pair of flat leather brown boots.
Giorgio Armani (whom I spotted in Barney's on a shopping spree looking as chic as ever!) went for imperial military glamour, but softened the look with satin bloomers. Matthew Williamson chose a smarter option, with skirt suits delicately enhanced with velvet and embroidered caplets for £500. If the thought of spending £500 on a cape brings tears to your eyes, then you won't be putting your name down for the black and silver Russian shawl with velvet detailing from Marc Jacobs for an exorbitant £1,045.
Kenzo is trying to seduce us as the temperature drops by showing some fantastic coats in imperial colours, focusing on deep red and gold, decorated with brocade and finished off with knee-high suede boots. Think Marlene Dietrich in The Scarlet Empress. However, Mango has THE most unbelievable coat this season, as modelled by Claudia Schiffer in their new campaign and gives Kenzo a run for its money. It is black velvet, calf-length and has a satin-appliqu border. At £140, it is stunning and worth every penny.
However, the master of seduction is Italian genius, Roberto Cavalli. He showed sexy velvet trousers, skyscraper heels and neat, fitted jackets complete with brocade and a fur trim. Mrs Beckham is his new muse and Kate Moss has just finished modelling for his 2006 campaign, so watch out for them both in the coming months wearing these trousers (probably in a tiny size 6!).
If you're looking for something more feminine then have a look at Diane Von Furstenberg's collection. Her white skirts with black and red embroidery are very delicate and add just a hint of Anna Karenina. Paired with bare legs and heels, they are the perfect option for evening wear. Jaeger replicated this skirt in a knee-length style with a very flattering A-line shape. If you don't want to shell out more money on a full outfit however, update this summer's favourite embroidered skirt with a charm necklace and some fur-trimmed accessories. Mango has a gorgeous knitted waistcoat with a fur collar for £30 which will turn any outfit into a winter winner.
If you don't want to splash out on a full designer outfit then maybe a few couture accessories could be added to your Christmas list? How about the rustic brown leather bag with tassels from Luella Bartley? Or my personal favourite - the £990 Patrick Cox thigh-high black velvet and gold brocade boot. I can assure you, they are to die for.
If you don't have the PAPs' wealth or connections, then you're going to have to head back to the high street, which I am delighted to say is a million times better than the US version. Where would we be without Topshop, M&S and the bargain-basement Primark? I was craving a dose of Topshop when I returned home after all of those chinos and polo shirts.
Incidentally, when I walked back into Topshop, they are (as usual) bang on the money when it comes to this trend. I firstly spotted a gorgeous grey bolero top with an embroidered sparkle motif on the back for £35. This is exquisite and perfect with a black vest and skinny grey jeans, to add just a touch of Cossack without going over the top. They also have some great rustic accessories including a charm necklace for £25 from Freedom, which is gold and tied with a brown satin ribbon. Alternatively, go for their embellished crosses or ostentatious rings.
Debenhams have gone the whole hog, with Cossack hats and Russian army coats in black and leather. Think imperial opulence mixed with folksy embroidery and military ornaments of Cossack warriors.
If you're looking for evening wear, head to Dorothy Perkins as they have a green velvet halter-neck dress with a jewelled brooch detail at the centre and a chiffon trim. It's only £60 and a limited edition so hurry before it flies out of the store. To wear over the top of this beautiful evening dress, they have a black full-length formal coat with a corded detail around the collar. It fastens with three large buttons and is a timeless classic. For £90, you will get your money's worth out of it I guarantee.
Warehouse has picked up on this trend and has abandoned the rustic, folksy charm for full-on opulent glamour. Their black satin empire-line dress with jewelled bodice is absolutely stunning. It is strapless, with a net underlay and is extremely flattering for those with more curvaceous figures. For £80, it's worth the splurge before Christmas. They also have a beautiful stone-coloured fur trimmed, embroidered coat for a very reasonable £90. This mid-length coat is a welcome relief for those who have had enough of black and want a more subtle tone. The fur collar and softer palette around the jaw line is more flattering, especially for older ladies, as it is less harsh than stark black.
Talking about more mature ladies... have you seen the new M&S television advert with Twiggy? How amazing does she look? I think all of the other younger models pale into insignificance compared to her timeless beauty. So I took a trip to my local store and found some great Russian inspired pieces. With a little nod towards Roberto Cavalli, Twiggy models a fabulous metallic leather jacket, which adds just the right amount of sexiness to a simple pair of black trousers and a polo neck (cashmere darling!). It is priced at £99 but you will wear it throughout the whole winter, so isn't it worth it?
If you feel as if you would like to wear a skirt with this trend, but a tight pencil skirt or knee-length A-line style just won't cut it, then those ladies with a more classic style should hunt out M&S's long woollen swing skirt from their Autograph range. Again, at £79 it is an investment but can be worn with most trends this season, including beatnik (add a black and white stripy jumper), Victoriana (wear with a sexy, sheer blouse and waistcoat) and military (throw on an admiral jacket and you're ready to hit the streets!). It has a very flattering flat panel at the top to keep that tummy in and then flows out at the bottom. It is ankle length, which is great for those who haven't got the best shaped legs. Team this with a folksy embroidered jumper and a chunky belt. Alternatively, dress it up for night with a fur-collared fitted jumper and some interesting rustic jewellery.
One tip for this trend is not to look as if you've tried too hard and layered every piece of rustic clothing you own. Get folksy with the flattering silhouette of a skirt that skims the hips, but offset the femininity element with chunky leather boots.
If the girlie look is just too much for you, visit Mango and team your indigo jeans with a watermark patterned blouse (£40) and a little velvet bolero jacket for £28. The sheerness of the blouse and the addition of a pair of killer heels means you can wear this trend to a bar or a club. A neat jacket will give an urban edge to your Russian romance.
Finally, if you want one piece to see you through the winter which is inspired by the Tsars, then buy a dress. Tesco's Florence & Fred range has designed a very bright, rustic dress in red with a folk-style pattern all over it. At £25, you can afford to wear it a few times with your new Christmas boots and then throw it away. Add H&M's gold and rust muff with fur trim for £12.99 and you have a whole outfit for under £40! New Look also have a sequinned print folk dress in a similar red shade for £35. Team this with their tweed waistcoat (£22) and £12 faux fur Cossack hat and you have yourself a very sexy Kate Moss-style look.
Whatever you pick from this trend, Russian dressing will certainly add charisma, colour and a sense of drama to your winter wardrobe.
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