Last of the summer wine

Every year brings at least a handful of days with pure, clear skies, warming- never scorching - sun and a whisper of autumn in the rustle of drying leaves, days that bring memories flooding back like no other season.

And that's what wine should be like - a fleeting pleasure, yet one that years later leaves a tingle in the toes, a trace of its perfume in the nose that keys into all the memories of the time and the place and the people you drank it with.

I'm talking about real wines, not faceless brands, wines with individuality and a sense of their origins. There's no need for them to cost the earth. It's just a matter of knowing where to look.

Let's start in an exciting new place. The Leyda Valley in Chile has a unique cool climate and could become one of the world's great sources of Sauvignon Blanc and Pinot Noir - two of the greatest summertime wines. Floresta Sauvignon Blanc (£9.99, Waitrose) is made by the long-established firm of Santa Rita but is at the very cutting edge, with all the thrilling ice-cold grapefruit acidity, nettle and blackcurrant leaf scent and gooseberry and green pepper crunchy flavour that you could wish for. Marks & Spencer has Pinot Noir, Secano Estate (£6.99) from Via Leyda, which has a fabulous winsome balance of fruit and acidity and a delicious cream and strawberry flavour that reminds me of strawberry blancmange.

Look out too for less familiar native grapes from southern Italy, ancient varieties that are only now revealing their true worth. Two Sicilian specialities appear under the Inycon label.

The white Fiano (£4.99, Booths; also widely available) is fresh and gentle, with mild apple and pear fruit and an indefinable 'something else' that makes it special. Nero d'Avola (£4.99) is a smashing grape and this version is full and rich with great wodges of plum, black cherry and sultana fruit and herb scent to brush aside its appetizing bitter edge.

Northern Italy, meanwhile, has some unique styles that are rediscovering their true identity after years of mass-market mediocrity. Try Soave Classico (that Classico is important because it means the wine comes from the original and best vineyards in the region) such as Zenato (£4.99, Waitrose) with its gentle waxy texture and soft apple and dusty peach-skin flavours coupled to a minerally, zesty aftertaste. That's real Soave.

Austria's star white grape is Grner-Veltliner, with its very own flavour spectrum of apple flesh and white peppercorns. For an introduction to this undiscovered jewel, pick up a bottle of Grner Veltliner, Moosburgerin by Weingut Felsner (£7.99, Waitrose).

But what about the origins of the widely grown international varieties? Take Chardonnay, the ultimate globetrotting white. Its home is in Burgundy in France and there are finally some affordable wines starting to emerge that show proper Burgundy style. That means flavours that are understated compared with international versions with European rather than tropical fruit- melon and white peach where pineapple and mango are the norm - and a finish that's creamy rather than butterscotchy. Try Mcon-Villages Paul Talmard (£6.99, Adnams - 01502 727222, www.adnamswines.co.uk).

Cabernet Franc usually appears in blends with its superstar cousin Cabernet Sauvignon, but it has always been the leading red grape in the Loire Valley, where it can handle the cool climate and delivers breezy, refreshing reds ideal for summer drinking. Try Cabernet Franc Atlantique (£4.49, Co-op) for its wonderful marriage of bright raspberry fruit to a stony-dry herb scent.

Australia has pioneered some modern classics. Soupy-thick Shiraz is more of a winter wine, but if you've never tried Aussie Riesling, start with Geoff Hardy Australian Riesling (£4.99, Sainsbury's). It's tangy and citrusy with a touch of peachy richness and a surprisingly attractive whiff of petrol that shows this is real Riesling - although nothing like the original German style. Semillon-Sauvignon is a signature white blend from Western Australia and Palandri Pinnacle (£4.99, Waitrose) shows what it is all about, combining zesty apple, lime and kiwi fruit with softness and mellow autumn ripeness. Palandri's Shiraz (also £4.99) is an excellent drop too.

Semillon on its own is another Australian speciality. It's an acquired taste, but one that Tesco clearly believes in. Tesco Finest Semillon Estate Reserve, Denman Vineyards (£7.99) is a proper Hunter Valley Semillon mixing flavours as odd as leather, fish oil, custard and a distinct whiff of farmyard.

If that seems too weird, go for Tim Adams Semillon (£8.99, Tesco), which sets all kinds of apple flavours against a cool but sensuous cloud of creamy brazil nut oak. And if you see anything else by Tim Adams, snap that up too. He makes some of the finest, most individual wines in Australia at unbeatable prices.

Finding a budget wine with a sense of place is more of a tall order, but Thresher has a knack of sniffing out great Spanish bargains. Garnacha, Vineyard X (£3.99) is a satisfying mouthful of squashy strawberry syrup fruit and pepper bite with a hint of herbs.

Portuguese grape varieties are brimming with character and Sainsbury's Portuguese Red (£2.99) shows off their roguish charm. Carmenre is a distinctive grape variety that's making waves in Chile and Morrisons has an example called Cielo de Luz at £2.99 that is my favourite budget wine of the year - a superb mouthful of deep, scented blueberry and blackberry fruit with the teasing perfume of a pepper tree in bloom.

Booths has Pinot Grigio, Nagyrede (£3.79), a mellow, apple- and toffee-scented, almost dry delight that shows just how good Hungary is with whites. And then there's Hungary's star turn, Riverview Sauvignon Blanc (£3.99, Waitrose and elsewhere), a good snappy, gooseberry and blackcurrant leaf and green apple Sauvignon with a real tang to it.

Happy drinking, everyone. And happy memories."

*Oz Clarke's Pocket Wine Book 2006 (Time Warner Books) is published on September 15.