For sports writer Tim Wellock, a visit to Cally Palace in Dumfries and Galloway, South West Scotland, evoked memories of his youth. A round on the pristine golf course proved just as memorable.
A COMBINATION of nostalgia and curiosity prompted me to overcome teenage trepidation and sample the splendour of the Cally Palace Hotel and its delightful golf course at Gatehouse of Fleet.
The teenage trepidation goes back to the days of school camp in South West Scotland, when we had an annual cricket match in the Cally estate grounds.
At that age it felt quite daunting to be driven through the impressive gates, down the long tree-lined drive before turning right down a rough track well before reaching the hotel, which we imagined to be completely out of bounds.
The rough track led to the cricket ground, which was altogether welcoming with its homely wooden pavilion on a grassy bank overlooking the clearing in the forest where the game was played, with the lovely Galloway hills beyond. And I remember the delicious teas, conjured up by pinafored ladies anxious to spread some hearty Scottish hospitality.
In fact, to a teenager there was a magical mystery feel about the place. Sometimes a straight six would have to be retrieved from the woods, which could be entered through a gate with a track beyond leading towards the forbidden ground where the high-class hotel stood.
The cricket ground is still there in all its glory, as bonny as any I have seen, and knowing the setting I realised it had to be perfect for a golf course.
It was opened in 1994 and remains for the exclusive use of those staying at the four-star hotel, or any of the other six McMillan Hotels, including Peebles Hydro.
Cally Palace is a supremely solid and imposing mansion dating back to 1763.
Once inside, however, it quickly becomes apparent that the marble pillars in the reception area preside over a friendly atmosphere, and the complimentary glass of sherry makes it seem even more welcoming.
Gentlemen are required to wear jacket and tie at dinner and from 6.30pm in the lounge and bars, but there's nothing stuffy about the place as every effort is made to help guests relax.
That they do so is evident from the way they get up during dinner to dance the Gay Gordon to the music which accompanies the meal.
Bathrobes are provided and may be worn to the indoor leisure complex, which includes a 15-metre heated pool, jacuzzi, sauna, solarium and toddlers' play area.
If golf isn't enough, there's also a snooker room, all-weather tennis court, putting green and croquet lawn, bikes for hire and you can fish on the 25-acre private lake.
The lake is visible on the first hole of the golf course, but the only time it really comes into play is on the magnificent 519-yard 13th.
There's also water in front of the green at the 15th, an equally daunting and memorable par five. But don't imagine these are typical of the test you will face as the course is a rare mixture of championship-standard holes and very friendly par fours. Or if you just want to enjoy the scenery as you stroll the gently rolling parkland, the Galloway hills will keep you happy.
The total yardage is only 6,062 yards and it begins, as all holiday courses should, with a short par four of 287 yards with the lake forming a picturesque backdrop. It's not totally straightforward as a tree will impede your approach unless you're coming in from the right side of the fairway.
The second is an attractive par three to a raised green, and the next three are quite tight par fours with out-of-bounds left and trees on the right. But as none exceed 400 yards there's no need to risk the driver.
A tiddler of barely 100 yards is followed by a lengthy hike through the forest to the tree-lined seventh then you really will need the driver at the 590-yard eighth. Again there are trees either side, but the more generous fairway encourages you to open your shoulders.
The next three are modest par fours, then comes an excellent, slightly downhill 160-yard par three before another woodland stroll ends with the jaw-dropping panorama on the 13th tee.
With the hotel visible beyond the sinewy fairway and green, the lake is 300 yards from the tee, but you will have to cut across its corner with your second unless you drive very tight up the left, in which case you'll be flirting with trees.
Play too safe on the left with your second and your approach will probably be blocked out by trees, so it's best to play conservatively for position, even if it leaves a medium iron into the green over a stream.
This is a hole any self-respecting golfer will want to come back for because it demands to be mastered and much the same can be said of the 15th.
This one turns sharply right, round trees, at around 400 yards, leaving a short-iron downhill approach to a green attractively set behind a cascading stream with the hotel behind.
The 17th is a long par three with a huge Douglas fir standing sentry over the green, while the last is a short but unforgettable par four with perhaps the tightest tree-lined drive of all and a stream across the fairway 180 yards from the tee.
At current green fee rates, it's a course you would happily pay £35 to play, so a summer rate of just over £100 a night for dinner, bed and breakfast with unlimited golf has to be good value at a hotel where everything is of the highest standard.
Other courses in the area include Gatehouse's old-established lovely nine-holer, a newish development ten miles away in the superb setting of Brighouse Bay, the magnificent links at Southerness on the Solway Coast, three courses at Dumfries, and the highly-rated seaside course at Portpatrick.
THE FACTS
* Golf tariff (until October 29) based on two sharing for a minimum two-night stay: £102-£114 a night for dinner, bed and breakfast with unlimited golf. From November 1: £96-£108. Rates for November weekend breaks are £78-£90. For the over 60s there's a £5 per night reduction for a minimum three-night stay. There are also over 50s' midweek breaks at £71-£81 from October 30-December 1.
* Those staying at the hotel but not booked on the golfing tariff may play at £35 per day. The hotel has clubs, buggies (£19) and trollies for hire. Buggies booked for tee-off prior to 9am cost £12.
* Group bookings up to a limit of 12 are taken, but weekends are for mixed parties only.
* There are family rooms with special rates for children.
* There are special offers for two and three-centre holidays involving other McMillan Hotels, including Peebles Hydro. North West Castle (Stranraer) and Fernhill Hotel (Portpatrick) also offer the opportunity to play the local golf courses.
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