WITH a swing of her box pleat skirt and a click of her crocodile kitten heels, woman at Marks & Spencer will be stepping into the past this autumn. After recent troubled times, M&S is hoping it's a journey back to the good old days.

The sophisticated look of the 1940s has provided the inspiration for much of the season's collection, launched yesterday.

Berets, cloche-style felt hats and leather gloves are the accessories to accompany roll neck sleeveless sweaters, pussy bow blouses and A-line skirts.

Felt and faux fur, leather and lace mean it's still tactile but in a sexy, sophisticated way. It's sharp, smart and secretarial.

Some will call it conservative and lacking passion. But as far as customers are concerned it's the most wearable collection since M&S's difficulties began.

The company has tried, and failed, going down the "fashionable" women's wear route. This season it has played safe, with looks that are more classic than cutting edge.

To its credit, more thought does seem to have gone into who will wear the clothes. Instead of copying trends (did anyone really go for M&S's version of the summer's handkerchief top?) it has opted for classic pieces livened up with neat detailing - skirts with liquorice-thin leather belts tipped with chrome, jackets belted with leather spaghetti, tiny metal neck fastenings.

Brave checks, Prada-esque prints, felt tops and leather jackets add a "designer" element, while hot orange and red will be welcome colour spots on a shop floor of green, brown, camel and black.

Skirts are long, trousers are straight; layers of cotton, jersey and felt are for autumn with chunky cable sweaters for winter warmth.

Bags and shoes are the best yet.

After that it gets more dubious. From the 1940s the collection rushes headlong into the psychedelic 1970s and glitzy 1980s. Remember the Human League? Leather pencil skirts, red halter necks and diamante will take you back.

Even more scary are the words lurex and kaftan that appeared on the running order at yesterday's launch in a trendy London gallery.

Evening wear is poor, as is men's casual wear.

M&S is hoping its nostalgic journey into the past won't leave it trailing behind the opposition.