ON THE green at Dunsop Bridge visitors try to cram into the telephone box for a photograph. It's a popular sport, as this quiet village sheltering among low hills by the side of the River Dunsop, lays claim to being the exact geographical centre of the United Kingdom. The 100,00th BT telephone kiosk marks the spot.

It's one reason for visiting this peaceful corner of Lancashire. Another is the loveliness of the surrounding countryside.

Put aside images of Lancashire as the land of Blackpool rock and the ghosts of clogs and cotton, the Ribble Valley and Forest of Bowland form a hidden rural haven.

My invitation to go west promised surprising Lancashire. The first surprise was that the Forest of Bowland is not a forest. Apparently, the description once applied to a hunting ground, but that does nothing to detract from its charms.

This land of dale, low fell, heath and unspoilt villages, a designated Area of Outstanding Natural Beauty, offers leisurely pleasure for motorists and cyclists, with winding country roads and tempting pubs, and walkers will find a range of routes and circular trails to enjoy.

It also offers a rich history. The Romans left their mark on the village of Ribchester, the Normans gave the market town of Clitheroe its fine castle keep, while the ruins of the abbeys of Sawley and Whalley - now a retreat - bear witness to the efforts of Cistercian monks.

But probably the best-known tale of these parts is the tragic 17th Century story of the Pendle Witches.

From the shadow of Pendle Hill, the old women Demdike and Chattox, and eight family members and friends, denounced as witches in 1612, were driven through the Forest and Trough of Bowland to death in Lancaster.

Taking a couple of days to follow the 45-mile Witches Trail, much of which would still be recognisable to them, is a good way to see the area.

The trail begins in the Pendle Heritage Centre in the small town of Barrowford, near Nelson, quickly heading off into narrow lanes around the mass of Pendle Hill, on the slopes of which, in 1652, George Fox had the vision that led to the founding of the Quaker movement.

Arriving in Newchurch village, watch out for St Mary's Church, where the Eye of God looks out from the tower - perhaps to ward off witches.

Rounding the hill, the road leads to Downham, a pretty village of stone cottages leading down to a stream, which is a fine resting place for visitors, and some well-fed ducks.

From Downham, the trail leads to Clitheroe which is well worth a look if only for its Castle Museum where an audio system brings to life a Victorian kitchen, a clogger's workshop and printing press.

Leaflets giving details on a wealth of attractions are available from the town's tourist information centre.

On the outskirts of the town, as the B6478 to Waddington leads the traveller into the Forest of Bowland, is a hidden delight. Behind wrought iron gates at Brungerley Bridge, unannounced from the road, is the Ribble Valley Sculpture Trail.

With a wonderful centrepiece carving, Saving Sheep, by Thompson Dagnall, it is very much a community effort. More than 400 local people have taken part in making pieces for the trail.

Back to the witches. A short detour well worth taking is to the village of Slaidburn, where the North West Heritage Trust has converted 17th Century cottages into a heritage centre, offering information and tea and cakes.

From Dunsop Bridge, where you can play the telephone box game or simply join the Centre of the Kingdom walkers for an ice cream by the stone bridge, the trail plunges into the Trough of Bowland.

The narrow road winds by water through steep-rising brown and green bracken covered fells, before climbing out of the cut and entering the gentler green confines of Over Wyresdale.

A few miles on, a squat stone tower, erected by a Mr James Harrison to celebrate Victoria's jubilee, marks a breathtaking viewpoint.

With heath behind you, the land before the Jubilee Tower falls away for miles until the view ends in a hazy shimmer of sea and sand, across the far reaches of Morecambe Bay.

From here, the witches' road leads on to the lovely old city of Lancaster - but that has to be for another time.

For those tempted to explore this overlooked gem at the heart of the kingdom, the area offers a wealth of accommodation. You can select from self catering cottages to farmhouse bed and breakfasts, inns and luxury hotels.

My base at The Gibbon Bridge Hotel, near the chair-making village of Chipping, was in the "treat yourself" category, but well worth it for a short break.

Quiet and comfortable, the award-winning privately-owned former farmhouse, offers luxury without affectation, fine food, including its own produce, and from its dining room, lovely views across Britain in Bloom winning gardens, overlooked by Jeffrey Hill, from which, on a fine day, they say you can see the distant Blackpool Tower - and a glimpse of an alternative Lancashire.