The Butlins for monks

IT WAS the religious equivalent of Butlins, a 'holiday camp' where monks could escape the city. Though there was no swimming pool nor evening entertainment, the monks at Finchale Priory at the beginning of the 15th Century enjoyed attending hunts and kept sporting dogs.

More spiritual activities included walking "religiously and honestly" through the fields around the priory.

Finchale's development as a holiday retreat for the local Durham monks came about when the Durham community shrank during the first half of the 14th Century. Loss of revenue as a result of conflict between the English and Scots meant an alternative use had to be found for the priory and they hit on the idea of making it a place of rest.

The story of Finchale is revealed in the first ever book written about the priory. Written by Peter Ryder and published by English Heritage, which operates the priory, the book takes readers on a tour of the priory as well as detailing its history.

Custodian Steve Hudspith says the site has much to offer, with a riverside walk along a secluded part of the Wear that's often bypassed by visitors. And there's the story of St Godric, England's first recorded composer.

Built on a bend in the river, Finchale dates much earlier than the 14th Century, thanks largely to Godric, a remarkable and romantic figure who lived a solitary life in Durham before his death at the age of 105. A born adventurer, he became a travelling pedlar as a boy in Norfolk and was only about 20 when he took his first trip, to Rome, not an easy journey in the 11th Century.

By 1090 he co-owned a merchant ship and travelled in northern Europe, taking in Holy Island and the Farnes en route to Scotland. Ryder believes the stories he heard of St Cuthbert's life as a hermit made a deep impression on Godric.

After more travels to Spain and Italy when he was about 40, Godric radically changed his lifestyle, giving up the sea to become a hermit. He settled first near Carlisle in 1104, then moved to live with another hermit in Wolsingham, County Durham. Here he had a vision of St Cuthbert in which he was told that he'd find a new home at a place called 'Finchale'.

However, it was some time before he searched out the place, instead heading out on one last pilgrimage to Jerusalem, then spending some time in Whitby before returning to the North-East. A community of Benedictine monks told him where the place 'Finchale' was and Ranulf Flambard, Bishop of Durham, gave him permission to settle there in 1112.

Ryder says Godric probably first set up a hermitage about 1.6km up river of the present priory, at a spot known as Godric's Garth where there are still some ruins.

Later he moved upstream and built himself a hut with a turf roof and a chapel in which he had a crucifix, an image of the Virgin Mary and a bell.

Roman pottery found at the site in the 1920s suggests Godric was not the first to settle at Finchale.

Although he was not completely alone (his mother, brother and sister all came to live nearby), life was hard for Godric. As well as choosing to wear a hair shirt and chain mail and sleeping with a stone as a pillow, he was robbed and almost killed by the Scots, and only just survived a flood.

In thanks for his escape, he built a new church dedicated to St John the Baptist which he linked to his St Mary's Chapel by a thatched cloister.

He finally died on May 21, 1170. He was buried where he had lain bedridden for eight years living on milk.

After Godric's death, two monks, Reginald and Henry, were sent to live in the hermitage, which became a satellite to Durham Cathedral Priory.

Finchale became a priory in 1196 when the Benedictine monks of Durham came up with a plan to see off their rivals, the Augustinian or Black Canons (so called because of the colour of their robes) who came from Cleveland to build a monastery just west of the city for Bishop Hugh of Le Puiset of Durham.

When Bishop Hugh died, the Benedictines drew up a deal with his son Henry whereby they would grant him Finchale, on condition that he would hand it straight back. In return he would be regarded as the founder of the priory.

Initially, ten monks were posted at Finchale Priory though this was soon increased to cope with the growing number of visitors flocking to Godric's grave.

The church where the saint was buried remained and a new church was built around it.

During the first half of the 14th Century, the Durham Benedictine community shrank considerably. It was then that the monks came up with the idea of turning Finchale into a holiday place for the monks of Durham.

After the dissolution of the priory in 1538, most of the buildings fell into ruin although some, including the Douglas Tower, may have still been used.

Some investigations and recording was carried out in the mid-19th Century and by the early part of last century the then owner, the Dean and Chapter of Durham, began charging visitors one penny admission.

When experts visited in 1914 they discovered the site was deteriorating badly; soon after the Office of Works (later English Heritage) took over as guardian.

Excavation of the site in the 1920s revealed a tomb against the north wall of the ruined church precisely where chroniclers said Godric was buried. The small coffin, made of stone with a lid of polished Frosterley marble, appeared to fit the hermit's tiny frame but was empty.

Ryder writes: "Were Godric's mortal remains simply discarded by grave robbers at the dissolution or were they spirited away to safe keeping with some pious family? We may never know."

l Finchale Priory is open every day from 10am-6pm until October 31. The best way to find it is to turn off the A167 at Framwellgate Moor and head for the Arnison Centre from where the priory is signposted.

Admission is £1.30 adults, £1 concessions, 70p children, under-fours free. There is a separate charge for the car park of £1.20. Next to the priory is a caf, shop and toilets. For more information, tel: 0191-386 3828.

l Finchale Priory by Peter Ryder (English Heritage, £2.25) is available at the priory or by telephoning (01536) 533500.