THE weekend of our visit to Winchester, it rained. It rained as we left Darlington, it rained as we passed through North Yorkshire and the Midlands, and it rained as we drove through the south.

It rained so much that I began looking out for long queues of animals in pairs. The traffic ground to a halt in the biblical torrent, and reduced me to screaming at the grey, remorseless heavens while I was passed on the hard shoulder by some enterprising canoeists.

Then, all of a sudden, we turned off the motorway and left the downpour behind us. Out of the entire country, Winchester stood alone as an island of sunshine, a pocket of summer, an oasis.

The city itself is tucked away in Hampshire, just 12 miles from Southampton and the south coast. It is a marriage of the ancient and modern, a perfect example being its landmark cathedral.

Inside, the cathedral is stunning, the medieval architecture and stone carving is a truly jaw-dropping sight to behold. Guided tours are available and well worth taking, as our knowledgeable guide explained the history of the cathedral, its patrons and those who were buried within it.

The most notable of these is Jane Austen and the plaque where she lies is something of a shrine for her legions of fans.

In the crypt stands a sculpture by Angel of the North artist, Antony Gormley. The lifesize lead statue of a man reading is perfectly placed in the centre of the crypt's main corridor, which floods after heavy rain, and the figure appears to rise out of the murky depths.

The Refectory is a new construction next to the cathedral and enclosed within its grounds. Done tastefully in glass, it is a tranquil retreat and serves excellent food and wine, mostly produced in the Hampshire region.

The city centre is much like York or Durham, with all the high street names present and correct, dotted among the tea rooms and souvenir shops.

Around every corner there seems to be another historical site with a string of fascinating stories attached to it, from King Arthur's round table in the Great Hall to the city bridge built by St Swithun.

There are five military museums, and one of particular interest to tourists from the North-East is the Ghurka museum.

For dining out, try the famous Hotel du Vin which serves good food and has a superb wine cellar.

Outside of the city centre, there are a couple of places of interest close by.

Although born in Stevenage, Jane Austen grew up in the village of Chawton. We were taken there by the wonderful King Alfred bus company, a motley crew of volunteers who restore and run the old buses that were Winchester's public transport system before the buses were privatised.

Our journey was completed on the Watercress line, another restoration project, this time with steam engines.

Jane Austen's house is surprisingly small. It is full of objects and furniture that once belonged to Britain's best known authoress, but the fact that little is known about her private life make it a visit only of interest to die hard fans.

Lainston House is much more impressive. The former manor house is now a five star hotel and restaurant. Surrounded by acres of parkland, this splendid building has managed to retain much of the feeling of a house rather than a commercial enterprise. The interior is plush yet comfortable, and the atmosphere is relaxed, largely due to Hampshire's answer to Des Lynam; our suave host and hotel manager Richard Fannon.

Our own hotel, The Wessex, was well signposted and easy to find. A classic piece of 1960s architecture, from the outside it looks like one of Prince Charles' "monstrous carbuncles", its concrete car park clashing loudly with the much older buildings around it.

The reception and the bedrooms have a similar 1960s feel, but the staff are friendly and keen to help. The rooms are small but not cramped and our window afforded excellent views of Winchester cathedral.

By far the most attractive feature of the Wessex is the dining area. It has a sedate, 1940s feel to it, heightened by the jazz pictures and the sounds of gentle big band crooners that play at breakfast. The breakfast bar is very well stocked and serves the best Danish pastries I have ever had.

Winchester is ideal for a short break in the south, but history buffs will need longer to do it justice. The place has an almost magical quality; its residents tirelessly devote themselves to it as volunteers, such as the train and bus restorers, or the 500 "holy dusters" who clean the enormous cathedral.

Their enthusiasm stems from a deep love of the city, and after being there a few days, that starts to rub off on you, too.

FACTFILE

The Wessex Hotel, Paternoster Row, Winchester, tel: 0870 400 8126. A weekend bed and breakfast break in a superior double room with views of the cathedral costs £153 per night based on two sharing for two nights.

Cathedral Refectory, tel: (01962) 857227.

Hotel du Vin, tel: (01962) 841414

The Royal Hotel, tel: (01962) 840840. Lainston House Hotel, tel: (01962) 863588

Jane Austen Memorial Trust, tel: (01420) 83262

Winchester Tourist Information Centre, tel: (01962) 84050