FORCING rhubarb is perhaps not top of your agenda at the moment, however, if you want to produce those lovely succulent, crunchy pink sticks in the early spring, you must prepare the crowns now.

Ideally any rhubarb plant that is forced into early cropping should be at least three years old. Younger plants seldom yield a worthwhile crop and are generally useless after the forcing process.

Crowns that are to be forced should be lifted carefully with a fork. Any in which the central portion has died out can be divided. Only healthy vigorous material should be used.

The crowns must be left lying on top of the soil in the open in order to be frosted. The more frost the roots experience, the quicker the crop will be produced. Pre-chilling is essential for speedy forcing.

Once they have been frosted on and off for a couple of weeks the crowns should be taken inside. With the current mild winter it may be well into January before they are ready.

It is possible to force rhubarb successfully in a garage or garden shed, under the greenhouse staging or even in the open ground with the aid of a bucket or an old chimney pot. Providing that the roots have been chilled and are then placed in the dark a good early crop can be almost guaranteed.

When forcing rhubarb in a building it is advisable to pack the crowns closely together in a wooden box. Those used by the greengrocer for tomatoes or grapes are ideal. Use a friable compost to fill the spaces between the roots and then water them thoroughly.

It is essential that the box is placed in a dark airy place, and if this has to be the greenhouse, then it should be put beneath the staging with a curtain of sacking or black polythene hung in front to exclude light.

Similarly in a garage or shed it must be kept dark, but air must be permitted to circulate freely. Good ventilation is absolutely essential if the roots are to remain free from fungal diseases.

Watering during the forcing period is very important. While the crowns should be kept damp, they should never be wet, for not only does this encourage fungal diseases, but spoils the quality and colour of the stalks.

Initially the forcing temperature should not exceed 45F. However, if there is a possibility of gradually raising the temperature to 55F after ten days, the crop is likely to be ready about two weeks sooner.

Forcing rhubarb in the open using an old bucket or chimney pot is a little more difficult as the temperature cannot be controlled, so the crop takes longer to come to maturity. Nevertheless it is still worth doing if you do not have a suitable indoor facility.

The lifted crowns should be replanted in their permanent positions after frosting. An old bucket or chimney pot with a tile to cover the open top is then placed over each individual crown. To aid protection from the cold, good clean straw should be loosely packed into the container.

Philip Swindells

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Q I have a dwarf peach tree that is growing in a pot. It seems fine, but the young fruits always drop off. Can you help me?

A While it is possible to grow a small peach tree successfully in a pot, watering must be very carefully attended to. Fruits will be the first casualty of an irregular watering regime. Re-potting using John Innes Potting Compost No3 will ensure the best compost structure for long term watering.

Q Can I use nematodes to kill slugs during the winter months?

A No, these parasitic organisms require a temperature of 50-55F in order to function properly.

Q I have flowered a bulb of the colchicum or naked lady on the windowsill without soil. What do I do with it now?

A It can be planted as a normal bulb covered by about its own depth with soil. It will produce leaves in the summer time and flower outdoors during the autumn.