A NEW kitchen or the holiday of a lifetime - this was the proposition offered by my husband after an unexpected windfall. For a couple who have spent five years renovating a house with only a week in Corfu as consolation, our resolve to complete this lengthy DIY project finally crumbled. So, the trip was booked - a trekking holiday to see some of the world's highest mountains in the Indian Himalaya.

Straddling India, Nepal, Tibet and Bhutan, these magnificent peaks have captivated all who have seen, heard or read about them.

My husband's dream of visiting them had been harboured since his teenage years when he read of the first ascents of the world's 14 summits over 8,000 metres. The Himalayas became imbedded in our global consciousness after Sir Edmund Hillary and Sherpa Tenzing achieved their goal of making the first ascent of Mount Everest, the world's highest peak, in 1953.

Our ambition was considerably more modest - just to see these peaks at relatively close quarters would be enough for us.

Our trip began in Delhi, then onto Darjeeling to start a trek along the Singalila Ridge. During the next six days our walk promised views of most of the Himalayan range, culminating on the third day with a dawn vista which included four of the world's highest mountains - Everest, Makalu, Kanchenjunga, and Lhotse.

As novice trekkers, we had no idea what to expect - all we knew was we would be joining 12 other like-minded souls, plus our English guide and a back up team of 15 porters, for a week of camping and walking.

A typical day started at 6am with a cup of tea served to us in our tents (very civilised) and a bowl of hot water to wash with. This was followed by a hearty breakfast of porridge, scrambled eggs and toast.

We broke camp at 7.30am and walked for six to seven hours a day, with a break to eat our packed lunch, arriving at the next campsite at about 4pm - to be served tea and biscuits before another bowl of hot water was supplied for washing.

Dinner was served at 6.30pm and we were in our sleeping bags looking forward to the next day's adventure by 9pm. (We joked that most of our friends would think we were mad to be woken at dawn, walk for seven hours, be in bed by nine, not drink any alcohol or have a bath for a week and call it a holiday!)

As far as food was concerned we struck lucky with Chandra, our cook, who had a reputation for producing quality food. We were treated to a fantastic array of curries, casseroles and other delicious dishes - which even included a chocolate cake on our last night.

Most of the food was vegetarian, but there was always plenty of it, amazing, considering that it was all produced from a two ring kerosene stove using ingredients which had to be carried on horseback for a week (including fresh eggs and meat).

The starting point for the six day trek was a short drive from Darjeeling - the hill station made famous for its tea plantations and as a summertime refuge for the British, escaping from the heat of the Indian plains.

The attraction for the British is the temperate climate which is apparently similar to England, with mild winters and warm summers. However, the depressing similarity we experienced on our arrival at the world famous Windermere Hotel was chilly fog.

Our first day on trek meant meeting up with our horses and porters at the Nepalese border town of Manibanjang, although the mist continued to obscure what we knew to be fantastic views. With visibility down to a few hundred yards, it was a bit like a ramble in Swaledale in autumn.

Day two was also a mixed bag of scattered clouds, but even though we couldn't see the mountains, the walk passed through fascinating villages with the jeep track we were following lined with prayer flags and Gompas or small Buddhist shrines.

Our third night's camp was pitched at Sandakphu, the most famous vantage point for viewing the Eastern Himalaya. At an altitude of over 10,000 feet, it commands uninterrupted views of the mountains, forming a grand arc extending for nearly 320km.

We were due to wake at dawn the next day to watch the sunrise at this magical place. At 5.30am, we stumbled out of our tents to a sight beyond our wildest expectations. The mountains were bathed in a mauve and crimson glow which changed to pale pink and orange as the sun came up.

With blue skies and warm sunshine and the world's highest peaks all around us, walking along the Singalila Ridge was arguably one of the finest experiences to be had anywhere on the planet. The route meandered along the border between India and Nepal, and distant peaks of Tibet and Bhutan could also be seen up to the next camp at Phalut.

For the next three days, it was downhill all the way as the stunning mountain landscape gave way to bamboo thickets and huge rhododendron bushes which were home to red pandas, Bengal tigers and a host of other birds and wildlife. The contrast in such a short time from alpine meadows to jungle and forest meant the walk was always absorbing.

As we descended, the number of villages increased. During refreshment stops we met local people who allowed us to see their lifestyle at close hand.

The hospitality, warmth and contentment of the people we met was completely unexpected. The simplicity of their lifestyle, without many of the creature comforts we are accustomed to, could be described as poverty. But although India and Nepal desperately need better education and public health, they are richer than many western cultures in their commitment to their families, culture and religion.

The porters and sherpas who carried all our equipment, pitched our tents and cooked our meals were incredible people. They managed to leave camp after us, overtake us whilst carrying all our camping equipment and clothes and arrive at the next camp in time to pitch our tents and make tea before we arrived. All of this was done with good humour and a genuine desire to make our holiday the best it could be. We also have happy memories of our fellow trekkers, all of whom were from very different backgrounds, but were all brought together by a love of the mountains and a thirst for adventure.

FACTFILE

Nepal offers some of the most popular and accessible routes for trekking in the Himalaya, however, with this comes increased traffic on trails and a more commercial atmosphere. India is generally quieter and more unspoilt.

The best time to go is October-January for mountain views, April-June for fauna and flora. Anyone who is reasonably fit and enjoys walking is capable of trekking but it is advisable to embark on some kind of fitness programme once you have booked. Going to the gym, cycling and walking will all help to maximise your enjoyment. Depending on the altitude, normal walking gear is sufficient but mountain weather can be unpredictable. See your doctor about immunisation.

Many different companies offer treks, but be aware that cheaper holidays may be at the expense of the porters and support team who can be poorly equipped and paid in order to cut the price of your trip. We went with Classic Journeys - a small company committed to fair treatment of sherpas and conservation of the environment. Tel: (01773) 873497.

Finally, India and Nepal are developing countries. Roads are in poor repair and the overall infrastructure does not operate with the same smoothness and punctuality as it does in the West. Be prepared for the unexpected.