PALM Sunday, grim and glorious. Sheep graze, if no longer safely, the sign outside the Reeth newsagent's urges customers to disinfect their shoes before entering and across the fields a cock crows, though it may be unwise to stretch the neck of the metaphor.

Notices in the bus shelter, known thereabouts as the Houses of Parliament but probably more profound, talk of closed paths and of hardship relief. In the porch of St Andrew's church, Grinton, a mile down the sunlit dale, a poster about a Church and the Countryside conference has the single word "Postponed" written across it.

None for a moment wonders why, only where the black spot will next make its inalienable appearance. Another notice announces a 10.30am Gospel Concert in church, Carole Clegg and her band, Speakeasy. Last Sunday, of all days, the lady was singing the blues - and in the North Yorkshire countryside, they've never felt more like it.

First in the Cathedral of the Dales there is an 8.30am eucharist, Book of Common Prayer, about 20 present. Tim Tunley, vicar of England's largest parish, prays for "those whose life's work is in ashes" and blesses the traditional palm crosses.

The Gospel, the longest and most solemn in the litany, talks of darkness falling over all the land. It could hardly be more appropriate.

Also on the notice board, a Daily Mail cutting reports a 30-year survey among 2,600 people claiming to prove that church going is good for the health.

What it appears to say is that church folk smoke, drink and fornicate less which (with certain exceptions) is probably true but might not have needed 30 years to prove.

Reeth, between services, is subdued. Even the luncheon clubs have been cancelled, and the annual Good Friday pilgrimage from Keld to Grinton, known with dark irony as the Corpse Way.

Folk head for 10.30am church bearing carrier bags. Have they brought their sandwiches? Is Carole Clegg the Ken Dodd of jazz and never knows when to stop?

Maybe five or six times more are present than for the formal service. A chap sits at the front of the church unashamedly reading The Sunday Times - it might have been worse, of course, it might have been the News of the World and all that stuff about the Wessex girl. Someone else has brought the dog, one of those long-eared sorts, which snuffles.

Church practice becomes ever more unfamiliar, of course. There are those indeed, who appear to believe that you can catch religion, ethereally transmitted, just by putting a head round the door, or by reading columns such as this.

The Vicar, a bit of a heavy metal man himself, reads the prayers for the day, announces that there's a Traidcraft stall - "I won't do the political bit, but their chocolate's great" - introduces Carole Clegg.

Born and raised at Annfield Plain, near Stanley and now happily back where she belongs, she is among Britain's leading jazz and blues singers but the concert, sponsored by Black Sheep Brewery and part of the Jazz on the Swale weekend, is free.

Buckets at the back are not an aftermath of the wretched weather - in Swaledale, as elsewhere, they've not had their troubles to seek - but an invitation to donate (by the pail full?) to local churches. The repertoire includes familiar titles like Old Time Religion, Glory Train and It Is No Secret. "You have the Vicar's permission to dance in the aisles," says Carole, a vivacious grandmother.

Like church congregations, jazz bands tend to be getting on a bit. Eric, Carole's husband - they discovered their mutual interest at Annfield Plain Methodist Youth Club - swings sax, the other five fellers equally terrific. She, like many blues singers, is quite small. Though her voice seems to come from her boots, it only has about 5ft 3ins to travel.

There's a jazzed up Old Rugged Cross, too, and a song based on the 23rd Psalm with a line about everyone having to go through the flood. The Reeth area, and many more, have been there and back again.

It's a bit parky but the music's red hot. The chap's folded his Sunday Times, the dog's asleep, several (with the Vicar's permission) are dancing in the aisles.

The need for the carrier bags has become evident, too. If only for two hours on the rocky road to Easter, Swaledale has packed up its troubles and smiled.

l The first communion of Easter is at St Andrew's, Grinton, at 6.30am tomorrow, followed by breakfast at Fremington Sunday School, nearby, and by another service at 9.30am. The Rev Tim Tunley is on (01748) 884706.