THE North-East has apparently suffered its wettest weather this past six months for more than a century. It may not, therefore, be considered appropriate to discuss watering. However, it is from now on that action has to be taken to ensure that the summer garden receives all the water that it requires.

Garden soil may be saturated now, but drying winds can soon change the situation and the surface becomes cracked and dry. Mulching is one of the finest ways of preventing this happening and ensuring that permanent plantings retain the level of moisture that they require.

Peat is no longer fashionable as a mulch, largely being replaced by composted bark, coir or cocoa shells, although most gardeners contend that there is little to beat well-composted garden waste or leaf mould. The idea is that before soil dries out completely a generous layer of one of these materials is spread over the surface of the soil in order to prevent moisture loss.

Timing the spreading of the mulch is quite critical. The soil should not be saturated, but just moist. Excessive dampness trapped around the roots of established plants can be just as damaging as very dry conditions.

Mulching is generally out of the question with annual and bedding plants, but much can be done to improve the moisture retention of the soil now before the plants are planted. Even if the soil has already been dug, there is no reason why well-composted garden refuse or bulky organic products like hop manure cannot be forked into the surface of the soil.

Plants growing in tubs and containers benefit from having moisture-retentive materials added to the compost. The more stable additives which assist in the equitable distribution of moisture through the compost are perlite and arcillite. Both are granular materials normally associated with plant propagation, but they can also be used up to 25 per cent by volume in standard compost mixes.

Crystals which swell into a gel are also excellent, especially in soil-less composts. These are most useful for hanging baskets and hayrack planters.

The method by which water is applied in the garden is also significant in the successful cultivation of plants. Many newcomers to gardening believe that providing the surface of the compost is darkened by watering this is sufficient. In many cases it can be a disaster.

Watering of this kind encourages the development of roots near the surface which are very vulnerable to dying if the top layer of compost dries out at any time. It is far better to soak the compost thoroughly so that root development is equitably distributed throughout the compost and less at risk from surface drying.

With modern composts, especially those which are largely composed of peat or bark, problems sometimes occur with re-wetting once the surface has dried out. In order to obtain rapid penetration, add a little washing up liquid to the water in the watering can. When this is applied the water percolates through the compost as if by magic.

WHAT'S NEW

Victory is a luffa which can be eaten like a cucumber. It must be raised in a greenhouse.

Primrose Star is a yellow flowered variety of the popular pink clematis montana.

Rachel is a purple leafed, pink flowered heuchera.

QMy antirrhinum seedlings germinate and look fine for a couple of days and then collapse. What is the cause?

A It is a disease called damping off and can be controlled by watering emerging seedlings with Cheshunt Compound.

QWhere can I get seeds of horseradish and how should I grow them?

AHorseradish is not grown from seeds but pieces of root. Grow in a free-draining soil in full sun. Be aware that it is an invasive plant and so be careful where you plant it.

QI have thick leafy clumps of daffodils, but few flowers. Do you think that they are too crowded?

AOvercrowding is almost certainly the reason for poor flowering. Lift, divide and replant when the foliage starts to turn yellowish, probably in late June.