A MIST hangs over the canopy of leaves which is home to a very special family. The hillsides are steep, the vegetation green and luscious, the silence only broken by the sound of birds and insects. A rustle of leaves heralds the arrival of the creatures the party of eco-tourists is hoping to see - the gorillas in the mist.

It's one of the families of silverback gorillas which inhabit the mountains of Rwanda and the official Government guide takes the party of ten closer than they ever thought possible.

Treat them right and the gorillas will allow you to be privileged guests in their home. Be gentle, be quiet, show no signs of aggression and you could end up sitting in the grass with a fully- grown male draped around your neck, or wrestling with a youngster. This is eco-tourism at its best and a way the Rwandan Government is hoping to promote a country blighted by tragedy.

Horrific news and pictures from the landlocked Central African country during its troubled years virtually killed tourism in one of the most beautiful parts of the world. Winning back the confidence of the industry is an uphill battle but, if anything can do it, the gorillas can.

They get their name from the adult male who grows silver hair on his back as he matures. He is the leader and father to all of the young in his group and despite his 400lb frame, likes to play. Sometimes there are two silverbacks in a group and they will share responsibilities, though one will dominate the other. Females are half the size with no silver on their backs.

About 325 silverbacks share a high-altitude environment, which is always cool and cloudy, with antelope, elephants and buffalo. They have no natural predator, save man who tries to poach them and damage their habitat.

They owe their existence in the 21st Century to American Dian Fossey, who dedicated her life to the protection of the gorillas. The publication of her book, Gorillas in the Mist, won her world fame and the publicity of their plight helped stop the killing. She summed up the mountain gorillas when she wrote of a female: "On perceiving the softness, tranquillity and trust conveyed by her eyes, I was overwhelmed by the extraordinary depth of our rapport." Fossey was killed in her cabin in 1985 and her death remains a mystery today. When her life was portrayed in the movie, Gorillas in the Mist, starring Sigourney Weaver, the actress was so moved by her experiences with the creatures, she became a supporter of the Dian Fossey Gorillas Fund International and its honorary chairman.

For US$250, visitors can experience what both women did as they are taken by official guides to the mountain in the volcanic national park, Virunga. The tours are organised by the official Rwanda Office of Tourism.

"You get very close, you can even touch them, they are very friendly," says First Secretary at the Rwandan Embassy Hilary Byamugisha. "They are just like human beings. They are in good numbers and have their favourite spots, where our guides will take you."

They live 200km from the capital Kigali and can be visited easily in a day, or tourists have the option to stay over.

But the gorillas are a small, if thrilling part, of the rich flora, fauna and culture on offer in Rwanda. Unspoilt beaches line exquisite crystal clear lakes, natural forests offer sanctuary to rare species of bat, and, in the cities and resorts, 21st Century hotels sit side by side with traditional Rwandan guest houses and homes.

The weather is kind, with temperatures ranging from 15 to 30 degrees C. The rainy season is from December to February and the real heat comes in June and July. "It's a nice climate, the most suitable climate anyone could ever want," says Hilary.

London businessman Julian Reader was apprehensive when he paid Rwanda a visit. "Because of the problems they have had, when I told people I was going they said I must be crazy," he recalls. "But when you get there it really is a wonderful place. The hotels are very nice - you could quite easily be anywhere in the world - the people are friendly and the food is great. I was totally surprised."