THE season for winter flowering heathers has just begun. Technically heaths rather than true heathers, the Ericas, as they are more correctly called, are available in varieties which flower between now and the end of March or early April.

Unlike the true heathers, they are tolerant of lime, growing successfully in any moist but well-drained soil which is rich in organic matter. They must have an open position in full sun, but it need not be sheltered, for they have no difficulty in coping with our wild North-East winds.

Usually pot grown, they can be transplanted successfully at most times of the year, except during the depths of winter. Choose the earlier flowering kinds now for immediate planting. Being pot grown you can have a good idea of both their appeal and potential before buying them. Amongst the earlier flowering varieties are the rose-pink gracilis, deep rose-red praecox rubra and intense rose-red Queen Mary. There are no really early white kinds. Cecilea M Beale is one of the first, a lovely little plant with erect, spiky flowering shoots on a neat compact hummock.

King George, with its crimson-mauve blossoms, is another first-class plant, along with the startling carmine Vivellii, which has the added bonus of bronze-red winter foliage. There is also a golden-leafed variety called Aurea, but this always looks a bit sickly.

For a spectacular late winter and early spring show choose Springwood Pink and Springwood White. These are vigorous sorts and ideal for providing dense ground cover. Pink Spangles is another free-flowering variety, which is of slightly neater habit and perfect for interplanting with spring flowering bulbs like dwarf tulips and cyclamineus daffodils. While Snow Queen is a similar white-flowered kind with flowers held well above the foliage. Apart from being excellent garden plants, the winter flowering heathers are also easily propagated. If you have a cold frame, then cuttings can be taken now with a reasonable expectation of success, young plants being well-rooted by the spring and flowering next winter.

Choose non-flowering shoots wherever possible, although the removal of the flower buds from a flowering growth will produce quite useable propagation material.

Tear away the young shoots with a piece of heel or old wood and dip the cut ends into a hormone rooting preparation. Insert these into a pot or tray containing a mixture of equal parts peat and sharp sand, or peat and perlite, having first removed some of the lower leaves.

Keep cool, in full light, and moist throughout the winter months and the majority of cuttings will be rooted by the spring and ready for potting individually for growing on. They can then be planted in their permanent positions next autumn.

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Q When should I dig up my rhubarb for forcing and how do I do it?

A Rhubarb crowns can be lifted now and left on the surface of the soil in order to become frosted. This helps in the forcing process. Prepare deep boxes filled with soil and pack the crowns into these. Place in a frost-free, but cool, place in the dark and shoots will be quickly produced.

Q My yucca plant is nearly touching the ceiling in the living room. Can I cut it back and when should I do this?

A Yuccas can be cut back to within inches of the base and will sprout again. However, it is unwise to do this until the spring. Cutting back now may result in the rotting of the stem.