'YUK! What on earth is that? I'm not going anywhere near it! What is it?" The cry came from inside the house, so I threw down the secateurs (well, I laid them down gently, you don't throw old faithful Felcos around) and ran indoors. I was expecting to see an escaped cobra from a travelling zoo, a huge hairy spider emerging from the fruit bowl, or at least some form of oozing slime coming out of the kitchen tap.

There perched on the dining room chair, feet drawn up onto the cushion, was my big fearless Nick. One arm was outstretched with a stiffly-pointed index finger showing me exactly where to look. I duly gazed down towards the floor. I hesitated, just to savour the moment, then after a short, sharp stamp of my gardening boot, I tutted and waltzed back outside.

The monster in question was one of the most destructive and indestructible pests of the modern English garden. It was the cockroach of the horticultural world, the vine weevil (Otiorhynchus sulcatus). To the uninitiated, the vine weevil is an insect that munches away at the roots of house and garden plants. In its juvenile form, it is a plump white grub that lives in the soil. It grows into a beetle-like beast about three-quarters of an inch long. All adult vine weevils are female, and can lay hundreds of eggs in just a few months. They do not fly, but walk and crawl on floors, walls and the soil. They prefer warmer conditions and used to be known solely as indoor pests. Over the last few years, the warmer winters have allowed them to survive outside, mainly in pots and containers.

It is quite hard to spot the signs of a vine weevil attack unless you are fairly familiar with the problem. Usually the plant just fails to thrive, and then suddenly, one day it just gives up the ghost. You may notice irregularly nibbled edges on the leaves, and if you take the plant out of its pot or out of the soil there may not be much of a root system left at the end of the stem.

There really is no simple remedy. The only organic method at the moment is to use a biological control. This is a naturally occurring nematode that transmits a deadly disease to the vine weevil grub. The best way of administering them is to mix them up in a water solution and pour them onto the soil.

This is best done in late summer when the grubs are still growing. The nematodes will not survive in low temperatures (less than 15 degrees centigrade). The adults can usually be found at night, crawling around amongst the plants. They can be picked off and disposed of but be careful how you do this.

I can remember the shock and horror when, as a child, I witnessed my gentle, nature-friendly mother pull the head off a vine weevil. Now, as an adult and a gardener, I have fully come to terms with this course of action.

On the chemical front, there are a couple of preparations available which also have to be watered into the soil. They are effective at eradicating any grubs already present in the soil, but won't kill anything still unhatched which means you have to stick to a rigid dosing regime.

PLANT OF THE WEEK

Daisy (Bellis perennis)

The name comes from the Old English name for 'days eye' as the flowers open at dawn and close at dusk.

The daisy is an indicator of rain and closes its petals just before a downpour. It used to be said that spring hadn't arrived until you could cover 12 daisies under one foot.

Daisies were used in love divination by plucking off each petal one by one and saying alternately 'he/she loves me, he/she loves me not. The last petal would be the decider.

They used to be taken into battle by knights as a token of their lady's love and if you sleep with a daisy under your pillow, you will dream of your lover

Daisy chains were said to prevent children being carried away by fairies, as well as being used for the treatment of cuts, bruises and boils. Its old name used to be bruisewort, an ointment can be made for swollen and inflamed eyelids and the young leaves can be used in salads.

THINGS TO DO THIS WEEK

* Plant potatoes and asparagus

Those that have been sprouting for the last month can be placed in the ground or large tubs. For a pot 12 inches wide you can get away with maybe three potatoes. Some people wrap the tubers in straw, newspaper or seaweed. Try to get the sprouting 'eyes' uppermost, but this is not essential as they will find their own way around. Cover with at least six inches of soil. Start encouraging your next batch of potatoes to sprout.

Asparagus need to have their crowns poking out of the ground. This is usually done by making a trench with a ridge in the middle. Place the plants on top of the ridge and let the roots dangle down into the trench. Fill up with soil.

* Plant out sweet peas

Sweet peas that were sown at the end of last year and that have begun to take over the greenhouse can now be planted outside. They will have enough growth to make it through to the warmer days of spring. If they have started to get a bit leggy, pinch the tops out. This encourages the plant to grow bushier and produce more flowers.

* Trim last year's growth from outdoor penstemons and fuschias

These are not fully hardy plants up here in the North. They need to have that extra bit of protection to get them through the winter, so the dead stems are usually left as insulation. It should be warm enough to neaten them up now and chop the stems back down to the new growth.

* Feed fruit trees

Clear the area around the base of fruit tree. Get rid of any grass or weeds for a good six inches all the way round. Water in an all-purpose feed to the exposed soil (home made comfrey liquid does it for me). Mulch the soil. This can be done with anything from old carpet, wood chippings, sheep fleece and even grass clippings. The mulch keeps weeds at bay as well as retaining moisture.

Published: 20/04/2002