Fans who won't be big in Japan

'I THINK the Japanese will be absolutely horrified by the behaviour of some England fans," says Jenny Grogan. "Japan is very different from Britain culturally, and there is strict etiquette governing every aspect of life. Even visiting someone's house can be a minefield. Getting drunk and smashing up bars certainly won't be tolerated."

Jenny, a yoga teacher and therapist from Darlington, has visited Japan several times during the last few years. Her son, Myles, has taught English in Japan since 1997 and now lives in Tokushima on the southern island.

"Initially, he just went out for a year, but he liked it so much he's decided to stay. He certainly seems settled now and he has a Japanese partner," she explains.

"Culturally, Japan is very, very different and I know that Myles found it quite difficult when he first went out there. Fortunately, when we visited, we had him to keep us right because, without his guidance, we would certainly have put our feet in it.

"There are strict social rules governing everything from the way people eat to the way they address each other. When you visit someone's home, for example, you have to take your shoes off and put on a pair of slippers. But, when you go to the bathroom, you have to take them off and put on another pair. It can be very bewildering."

But the Japanese are so polite, they often won't tell you whether you're doing something wrong.

"What Myles found at work was that they would have a meeting where they would talk generally about what it was you had done, even if it was just filing something in the wrong place. Everyone probably knows who is responsible but, by holding a meeting, they think it saves face."

Myles himself had to tread carefully over his relationship with his partner, Yoko. The couple met at work but romances between colleagues are frowned upon.

"Their friends knew they were seeing each other but they had to keep it very quiet at work because it's just not the done thing," explains Jenny. "They've now been together for two years and they haven't had any real difficulties. People don't seem to have any problems with a mixed couple. They just had to make sure they did everything properly."

In a country where etiquette is of such importance, and it is even considered rude to blow your nose in public, unruly behaviour will not be taken likely. Football fans who misbehave could be held for up to 27 days in Japan while police investigate even minor offences. They may then face imprisonment, on-the-spot fines or deportation.

Jenny says: "The Japanese obviously know about the reputation of some of the English fans and they're prepared for the worst. Myles says business and hotels are worried about drunken behaviour and damage to property. One English person he knows phoned up a hotel and was refused a room, but when his Japanese teacher called a few minutes later, he was offered one.

"Generally though, the man on the street is looking forward to the World Cup. Football is almost as popular as baseball in Japan now and, according to Myles, people are very excited."

Fans are already packing their suitcases in preparation for the trip but they are being advised to do some research before they leave. Bradford College has been helping them prepare with a Kick Off in Japanese course, which teaches useful words and phrases, how to order food and tips on etiquette.

According to experts, the Japanese won't expect rigorously high standards of behaviour from their foreign visitors, but fans are expected to follow some basic rules.

"The Japanese are a polite and reserved people," says a spokesman for the Japanese Embassy in London. "Etiquette is considered very important and, although they do not expect Westerners to understand or follow their customs, it is appreciated when they make an effort to follow Japanese manners. Any Westerner who acts with courtesy and respect will not go far wrong."

There is, for example, strict etiquette at the dinner table. It is best not to put your chopsticks in a bowl of rice as this has associations with death. Chopsticks should also not be crossed, and food should not be passed from chopstick to chopstick.

Displaying your tattoos in public may cause offence as Japanese culture associates body art with criminals and, despite the hot and sticky weather, fans are advised not to take off their shirts because exposed upper bodies may also offend their hosts.

Drunken behaviour on the streets is extremely rare - the Japanese even avoid eating in public - and drugs are an absolute no-no. But fans who don't take them could get into trouble simply by possessing a Vicks inhaler bought in Britain. Some of them contain a substance banned under Japan's strictly-enforced Anti-Stimulant Drugs law.

Experts say there is no need for the English to adopt the Japanese tradition of bowing in social situations, although a nod of the head may be appropriate. If you are invited into a Japanese home, you should always remember to take a gift and you will be asked to remove your shoes at the door.

There's no doubt it's all rather confusing for the first-time visitor, especially when all you want to do is watch football. The Football Association recognises that visitors may need help to make the most of their time in Japan and is sending a fans' liaison officer to the country for the tournament, as well as advising fans to read Foreign office advice.

Nick Barron, spokesman for englandfans, the official supporters' club, says: "We've passed on much of the Foreign Office advice to our members and will continue to do so. We have produced a World Cup guide book, but we are not the police or the Government, we're the supporters' club and we deal with things like tickets and running the fan club."

But despite the plethora of rules, both written and unwritten, Jenny is convinced fans will enjoy themselves if they behave properly.

"Japan is a fascinating and beautiful country. One of the effects of all the rules is that it is extremely clean and extremely safe. There is a real feeling of community, even in the cities.

"Being late or being rude to someone is really frowned upon so you can imagine how they would react to the behaviour of some of the more extreme fans. I think if people respect the Japanese culture and way of life, they will be welcomed and it will be a wonderful experience for them."