Peels are becoming increasingly popular for removing blemishes and brightening up the surface of the skin. Jenny Needham reports

IF you don't like the look of your skin, if it's coarse and dull, why not peel the surface away and start again? Sounds drastic, but peels are becoming more and more popular.

The stars, as usual, are leading the way and the beauty press say peels have become one of the most popular pre-Oscar treatments. I've not been invited to any Hollywood premieres recently, but decided to have a peel anyway, just in case.

Acid peels remove the layer of dead cells that accumulates on the skin's surface and creates a dry, mottled, or even coarse look. They can also remove blemishes, while fine lines are literally peeled away. In the bad old days, peels carried a risk of permanent scarring and left the patient looking sunburned for weeks. Today, milder peels are available, although inevitably there is a trade-off; milder peels equal less dramatic results.

It can be baffling to choose between the various peels, but the important thing is to ask whether or not you'll look normal enough to go back to work that day. The safest option is the very superficial peel, but for visible, longer-term improvements, you'll have to sign up for three.

The TCA Peel is one of the treatments on offer at Saks in Durham. The peel, and other invasive anti-wrinkle treatments such as facial contouring, lip enhancement and Botox are all administered at monthly surgeries by James McGrath, a trained nurse. He heads up Collagenics, one of the largest companies in the UK specialising in facial cosmetic procedures.

The TCA (trichloroacetic) and fruit-based acids are dabbed onto the skin using a cotton wool bud. Within a minute or so I could feel the surface of my skin prickling, then getting very hot. A fan was produced to take away the heat, while James explained that the acids loosen the "glue like" attachments or cellular cement that is characteristic of many skin conditions, such as ageing, acne, skin discolouration and coarse texture.

When the acid begins to go "frosty" a fatty acid cream is applied, which immediately takes away the heat and burning sensation. This has to be left on for at least 12 hours, topped off with a special moisturising cream. James had also warned me to make sure I wore a high factor sunblock because my skin would be more vulnerable to sun damage.

There's no doubt I was "glowing" when I left the salon, and later that night, and that the surface of my skin was also much smoother and clearer. For the next couple of days, my skin looked vibrant. For four or five days after that, the skin began to peel and looked a bit messy, but I applied lots of moisturiser and when the peeling finished, my skin seemd to have a much better texture.

"It is a great quick fix and the effect will last for a few weeks," says James. "A course is recommended for a more permanent effect - I recently treated a woman with skin discolouration and thread veins and she was delighted - and the depth of the peel can be adapted to the specific problem."

A TCA Peel with special after care cream costs £150. Call Saks in Durham on 0191-384 295 or Collagenics on (01427) 875888 to find out which other Saks salons in the region offer the treatment.