Going along for the official opening of Seaham Hall's Serenity Spa was an education in itself; watching world-weary journalists wowing and cooing as they toured this haven of peace was testament to just how special a place has been created.

I remember first meeting owner Tom Maxfield a little while ago when he had just completed the first half of his dream for Seaham Hall in creating a world-class hotel in the historic building. With a faraway look, he told me about part two, the building of the Serenity Spa. Having now seen the realisation of that dream, it's every bit as good as he promised, and then some.

The opening ceremony featured Nan Sudakar, a Buddhist priest from Newcastle, who cleverly combined spirituality and (in the best sense of the word) a child-like sense of fun. This culminated in the placing of a jasmine garland on a beautiful huge bronze elephant which dominates the path from the hotel to the new spa. That underground walkway is a wonder, inviting the guest to walk from the hotel in a superb ambience featuring gently tumbling water.

Tom and Jocelyn Maxfield with Alan WrightOriental and Feng Shui principles, and attention to detail, are everywhere here. There are no external angles anywhere in the building which is a beautiful construction made of curved walls with a circular wood shingle roof. It has a real Tardis-like quality, and there are surprises everywhere as you wander through the 40,000 square feet of space on three levels. Part of the building will soon be covered by a grass mound to blend in with the landscape, and there are natural materials everywhere. Slate, teak, granite, horse hair, stone, and lots of wood are just some of the materials on show.

I was talking to John Wood, Managing Director of main contractors Tolent and it was clear that he and his team had really enjoying working on such a unique project. I first met John when we worked together on Durham County Cricket Club's new ground at Chester-le-Street and soon recognised an enthusiast for quality. A real professional enjoys challenges, and it's an education to hear John describe just one section of the building in the form of the Thai brasserie. Angles to get right (literally) included a circular bamboo ceiling, granite surfaces, and a sunken table. As someone who is proud of getting a shelf level, I bow with awe and respect! Have a look at their website on www.tolent.co.uk

You probably know something already of how this project started. Tom Maxfield was taking a flying lesson over County Durham and caught sight of Seaham Hall. Investigating the history, he found a sleeping giant dating from the reign of George III and, famously, the setting the poet Byron's wedding to Annabella Millbanke. The rest, appropriately enough, is history.

Preparing for the new Spa, Tom and his wife Jocelyn had the dream job of seeking out the best all over the world and bringing the cream of ideas back home to Seaham. As well as good ideas, they brought back a key Javanese word "leha leha" ; it means peace, relaxation, daydreaming, a mind emptied of tension and stress. Above all it's about taking time for yourself, a key concept in many eastern cultures which is often ignored here. If you wish, you can learn a lot about the theory and philosophy behind all this, but it's not essential. All you need to know is that you'll leave the Serenity Spa feeling wonderfully better in body and mind and spirit.

It's hard to over-emphasise the sheer quality of what's been achieved here. The budget nudging £10 million is a clue, but there's more to it than big spending; there's big thinking too. The range of treatments and experiences would take a long time to describe in full, but have a look at www.seaham-hall.com and link through to full details on the Spa. The modern technology and equipment is most certainly there, but it is the human touch which is most apparent. Four of the rooms are exclusive to couples and means that a day here can be a social experience too. If you want a flavour of the relaxation, how do you fancy floating in a sea salt solution to the sound of whales and dolphins? Apparently the experience is equivalent to eight hours deep sleep - lead me to it!

The real magnet is going to be a full day at the Spa which includes a range of treatments, a leisurely three course meal described as a Taste of Siam, and the all important switch-off time. Even this is mind-enriching with everything you can imagine and some you can't, like sound wave therapy massage chairs. Often, relaxing positions are cleverly chosen so that you can enjoy views of the sea, the countryside, or the sky. As you ask, prices cover a wide range from £30 for a single treatment to well over £200 for a memorable day of treats. Value is all relative, though, and when you're talking about this kind of quality, value it is.

Added to this of course, the hotel next door is also staggeringly good (more in a future column) and you have quite a recipe. Already named as one of the five Newcomers of the Year in the Good Food Guide 2003, the accommodation and the restaurant are a perfect complement to the Spa.

What's best, though, is that this world-beating combination is in the heart of the North East - and that really does make me feel good.

Published: 10/01/2003