A look at the Irish

The rise and rise of low-cost flying means that getting to the Irish capital from Teesside is cheap, easy, and quick. Ryanair have built an impressive operation which has applied the simple trick of looking at air travel in terms of what passengers want. They are fanatical about punctuality (topping the league tables again just recently) and their simple check-in procedures and "free seating" means that the whole procedure is very slick. My flight left Teesside Airport on time at 10.45 and was landing in Dublin less than an hour later. Because you're in the air for such a short time, the "free" perks that bump up the price on other airlines aren't really missed, and the efficient cabin staff will cheerfully sell you a drink or a snack if you feel the need.

Prices are very sharp on this route and it's worth checking www.ryanair.com to look at current offers. If you can book fourteen days ahead and be flexible on travel plans, you can even hit the lead-in fare of £9.99 one way including taxes. Just by browsing on their website for a few minutes, I found an amazing price if you fancied a week in Dublin in May flying from Teesside - how does £24.17 return (including taxes!) grab you?

Dublin Airport is bustling and efficient, and you're soon through the formalities for the twenty minute trip into the city centre.

I stayed at The Clarence with a great location on Wellington Quay overlooking the River Liffey and right at the heart of the trendy Temple Bar district. This place is cool with a capital "wow" and is a brilliant combination of old and new Dublin. It was originally built in 1852 but was sympathetically refurbished and re-born when it was bought by U2 superstars Bono and The Edge. Their target was to reclaim the former glory and inspire the place with their own feel of how a five-star hotel should be. From what I saw, all targets have been hit. As well as the top quality and attention to detail you'd expect at this level, there's a feeling of space and freedom, a total lack of stuffiness, and, above all, friendly service which should act as a benchmark for the hotel business everywhere.

A classic example of that service came during dinner in the hotel's beautiful Tea Room Restaurant. Meeting the hotel's manager, the effervescent Robert Van Eerde, I mentioned, very much in passing, that I'd be keeping an eye for the English football results a little later because my beloved Hartlepool United were away to Lincoln City. I was enjoying a brilliant meal so much that I'd almost forgotten the football, when Nick, the superb restaurant manager, appeared at my shoulder with a cognac.

"You'll be needing this" he said, "I'm afraid your boys came second tonight." How's that for individual attention way beyond the norm?

The meal itself was world class and my choice of seafood bisque followed by venison was perfect. The night, though, was an unforgettable combination of tastes. The between course surprises were a great touch, and the procession of amouse-bouche was beautifully done.

For such an experience, it's not expensive. A three course meal will cost you 52 euros, about £35, and that's amazing value for, in my view, one of the best restaurants in the world.

If you ever win the lottery, or want to celebrate in style, have a look at the Penthouse in the Clarence. This was added to the top of the building during the renovation and it's stunning. Now it does cost 2100 euros a night (that's nudging £1500), but you can see why. It has two floors, two ensuite bedrooms, dining room and kitchen, and loads of extras - including a baby grand piano. I would think its keys have been tinkled by some famous fingers, as this penthouse is top of the list for many of the big names who come to Dublin. The real clincher is the glorious view along the Liffey, particularly beautiful at night. It's reminiscent of the view from the Baltic on the Tyne, with Dublin's own Millenium Bridge taking centre stage.

Just to complete an evening to remember, Bono himself was eating in the restaurant, and, being a gentleman, he didn't bother me for my autograph! You'll gather that this hotel really is unique - have a look round at www.theclarence.ie

Of course the name of Guinness is synonymous with Dublin, and I'd warmly recommend a trip to the Guinness Storehouse to find out more. You can take a virtual tour at www.guinness-storehouse.com but that denies you your complimentary pint of the magic liquid included in your 12 euro (about £8) ticket to have the real experience. This place has already hosted over a million visitors and it's a fascinating building. It's industrial from outside and very contemporary inside, designed to match the appearance of a pint of Guinness. The rise through the lower floors leads to the bright "head" of the top-floor Gravity Bar which has fabulous panoramic views of the city and the Dublin Mountains.

I'd allow yourself plenty of time to enjoy the Storehouse. There's loads to see, and be fascinated by, and lunch of oysters and seafood chowder, accompanied by Guinness of course, went down very well.

I definitely want to return to Dublin soon because the appetite was throroughly whetted by this visit. Excellent shopping, great galleries and museums, and the wide open spaces of Phoenix Park are top of my list for a longer look next time.

Above all, though, it's Dublin people who are the icing on the cake. Home to great writers like Swift, Joyce and Yeats, it's no surprise that this city is still typified by great humour and a love affair with language. Dublin pubs and bars are really special, and their reputation for conviviality is fully justified. People here don't chat; they discuss- and that's a totally different thing.

I'm still tickled by the story one Dubliner told me about the stranger rushing into a pub and asking for the quickest way to the airport.

"Well" said the barman, "are you walking or driving?"

"Driving" replied the stranger.

"Well" replied the barman, "that's the quickest way."

It's the sights of Dublin which stick in the memory too. It's a big, modern, go-ahead city, but still has the charm of a village. In the middle of the morning rush-hour, I saw a fork-lift truck heading who knows where carrying an enormous load of carrots. The discussion about where they were headed had me in stitches.

This city loves life, and, if you haven't been for a while, it's high time you did. Too soon, it was time to leave, and this is when flying back to your local airport comes into its own. Taking off on the Ryanair flight from Dublin at 9.30 in the morning, I was on the ground at Teesside at 10.15, back home in Hartlepool well before eleven. It's a very easy trip, it's a unique city, and I can't wait to go back.

Published: 11/03/2003