French without fears

I HAVEN'T galloped flat-out since I was 13 years old and my cousin and I used to race each other on our ponies. We would ride thunderously through the fields at break-neck speed without a care in the world, often losing a stirrup or two on the way round. Afterwards, we would gasp for breath and laugh at our near misses. We always went home with rosy cheeks.

It's rare to capture the same free-spirited feeling these days, when you care more about your limbs staying intact. Eighteen years later and I've developed into a "happy hacker" - the kind of rider who likes to take in the scenery. Or so I thought ...

The Nord-Pas de Calais is the region of France which is the closest to England and is an ideal destination for a weekend away. Eurotunnel's fast track Club service whisked us from Folkestone to Calais/Coquelles in about 35 minutes.

Our group members comprised two other "happy hackers" - Barbara and Gillian - along with Rebecca who used to work at a racehorse yard and Ian, who hadn't ridden for ten years but was sporty and had borrowed his friend's chaps.

We headed for the equestrian centre at Saint Jans Cappel run by husband and wife team, Nicole and Guy Terrier where I was assigned a sturdy grey pony called Hardy. Guy, a laid-back French version of the dashing Captain Mark Philips, took us through the beautiful Mont de Flandre countryside, past red brick farms, pretty thatched cottages and flat, ploughed fields. The Flanders Hills (more aptly described as mounds) rose gently in the distance and we gazed at the wonderful scenery, even popping over the border into Belgium at one point. We trotted through picturesque villages and galloped along stony tracks with the wind in our faces.

After our ride, happy, aching and covered in dust, we ate at a traditional Flemish bistro, known as an estaminet. Estaminets are famed for their old world decor - simple wooden furniture, dried hops and traditional wooden games - and the surroundings were particularly relaxing after a day of exercise and fresh air. There is a tradition for using beer in food in Flanders (even in soups, pancakes and flans) and we tucked into carbonnade - a delicious traditional dish of the tender beef cooked in beer and served with an ample helping of chips.

The following morning, after a good night's sleep at Guy and Nicole's three-star gite, a self-catering house next to the equestrian centre, we compared aches and pains over breakfast and looked forward to a more gentile look at the countryside in Guy's horse-drawn carriage.

The Flemish heavy horse almost became extinct until a line was re-discovered in America. Over in Bailleul, in the heart of Flanders, Denis Beck and his family imported two Cheval Flamands to his farm and brewery from the States and he now has ten.

Hundreds of years ago these magnificent, docile creatures with their flaxen manes and tails used to carry soldiers and knights into battle. But on the Beck family farm they're content keeping both children and adults happy with carriage rides. Pouring out glasses of his home-brewed beer, Hommelpap, Denis told how they had thrown open the farm gates to the public 20 years ago to keep alive the traditional way of growing hops and making beer.

Our next ride was on the beach at Hardelot, near Le Touquet, and about 40 minutes drive from the Eurotunnel terminal at Calais/Coquelles. This happy hacker wanted a donkey or an "an armchair with legs" for her next ride from the Centre Equestre D Hardelot, with the inner thighs feeling a bit tender and the John Wayne-like swagger threatening to become a permanent fixture. I was introduced to Algue - a 16hh-ish "gentle" chestnut mare.

The ride set off slowly along sandy tracks which allowed us to marvel at the size of the houses nestled on the edge of the pine forest, most of them holiday homes for the French. Sitting back in our saddles, we breathed sighs of contentment before we neared the beach and our mounts perked up.

As we pushed forward to a canter, Algue showed what she was made of. Her turbo-charge kicked in and I suddenly found myself sitting on a long-lost relative of Desert Orchid.

There was nothing to do but lean forward and go with her, and revel in a feeling of utter abandonment. The beach which opened up before us was relatively deserted but at some point we charged past an elderly couple walking their dog, and onwards past a mum, who hugged her youngster close to her, pointing as the race unfolding on the beach.

The years rolled away and inwardly I screamed "Yeehaa!" Sand flew up from the thundering hooves and Algue and I shot past all the other riders, my heart beating wildly as the vast beach was swallowed up. This was the life. Who wants to be a happy hacker when you can gallop flat-out and pretend you're 13 again? Even fears of not knowing the French for "whoa there" eased when Algue started to slow. She knew when the gallop was ending, as they all did.

We returned back along the beach and picked our way along the water's edge. Feeling breathless and exhilarated, I was tempted to round off the ride and take Algue for a swim in the sea.

That night, the John Wayne roadshow was in definite need of a deep bath and good food, which we found at the excellent Hotel du Parc, set in tranquil surroundings with views over the Dunes golf course.

The next morning, we rode out through the breath-taking pine forest at a gentler pace. In only three days we had had it all - the beach, the forest and the beautiful Flanders countryside; the flat-out, exhilarating gallops and not forgetting the happy hacking.

FACTFILE

Lindsay Jennings travelled to France courtesy of GNER from Darlington to London, contact: 08457 225 225; from London to Folkestone with Connex, contact: 0870 6030405 and from Folkestone to Calais/Coquelles with Eurotunnel. Savings can be made by booking online at www.eurotunnel.com or contact 08705 35 35 35.

* Aupres de mon Arbre, Steenvoorde, Flemish cuisine. Tel: 03 28 49 79 49.

* Guy and Nicole Terrier offer horseriding, carriage rides and two gites at Centre Equestre, St Jans Cappel. Contact 03 28 49 00 10 or their website http://larosedesvents.free.fr. An hour's trek costs from 12 euros.

* Ferme Beck, Bailleul. As well as the Flemish heavy horses and home-brewed beer, the Beck family also have self-catering gite accommodation. Contact 03 28 49 03 90.

l Estaminet Het Blauwershof, Godewaersvelde. Traditional Flemish food.

* Best Western Hotel du Parc in Hardelot, in the heart of the pine wood, five minutes from the beach and nestling between two golf courses. Prices from 86 euros for a double room. For bookings contact +33(0) 321 33 22 11 or www.hoteduparc-hardelot.com

* Centre Equestre D Hardelot, Hardelot. Contact 03 21 91 83 77. Around 14 euros for an hour's ride.

* Visit www.cdt-nord.fr for information and bargain breaks.