Claypath, once known as Clayport or Claypeth, is one of Durham's oldest streets. It is not the most picturesque of the older streets but it does have a few Georgian houses and there may even be remnants of timber-framed houses hidden among its buildings.
Claypath was one of the busiest shopping streets in Durham until the modern bridges of Millburngate and New Elvet were built nearby. The two bridges were linked by a road that needed to pass under Claypath. The road scheme was completed in the 1970s, but the underpass required the demolition of several buildings in Claypath during the 1960s.
Church backdrop: A view of Claypath in the 1960s showing a continuous line of buildings leading to St Nicholas Church in the market place The demolition took some of the life out of Claypath and damaged the enclosed nature of the neighbouring market place. Claypath was cut off from the city centre and, arguably, became a backwater.
In the 1980s, plans were discussed to build shops across the gap created by the underpass in the hope of revitalising Claypath. Nothing came of this plan but a shopping street has recently been created as a result of the Prince Bishops shopping centre, and perhaps this fulfils a role that would otherwise have fallen to Claypath. However, Claypath has not been totally neglected and it has recently been extended with the construction of shops near the underpass.
The Gala Theatre and Clayport Library have also given a lease of life to the old street.
Traffic free: Most of the buildings in this 1960s view of Claypath were demolished to make way for the underpass Claypath was the only medieval street to enter Durham's peninsula without crossing the Wear and it was the main entry to the city from the east. It may originally have been called Clay Peth, as peth was an old North-East word meaning climbing road. It also occurs in Framwellgate Peth and Crossgate Peth.
The first part of the name Claypath comes from an ancient gateway that separated Claypath from the Market Place. This was Clayport Gate, with a name that may derive from Cleurport, meaning gate with sluice. One theory is that Claypath's narrow neck of land was defended by two sluice gates connected to the city walls that were lowered into the river to the north and south of the street. Unfortunately, there is no definite evidence to support this theory.
Most of Durham's river peninsula was enclosed and protected in medieval times by walled fortifications. The peninsula's narrow neck was particularly vulnerable and was defended by the castle with its adjoining walls crossing Saddler Street at the Great North Gate. The Clayport Gate was associated with a supplementary set of walls that enclosed the market place area. Clayport was thus of secondary importance to the Great North Gate and this may explain why Clayport Gate was a relatively weak arch of stone and rubble, while the Great North Gate (demolished in 1820) was a very solid and imposing structure.
Clayport Gate marked the western end of Claypath until its removal in 1791, but the demolition of the 1960s now just as clearly defines Claypath's western boundary. The eastern boundary of Claypath is a little bit harder to locate since upper Claypath is often confused with lower Gilesgate, particularly as lower Gilesgate is rather confusingly the home of the Claypath Medical Centre.
The demolition of part of Gilesgate and the creation of the Gilesgate roundabout in the 1960s have isolated Claypath and lower Gilesgate so that the two quite separate streets now appear to be one. In former times, lower Gilesgate was separated from Claypath by "the leaden cross". This stood at the top of Claypath near Tinkler's Lane, but the lane is now the only indication of Claypath's eastern boundary. The old cross and the lane were the boundary between the parish of St Nicholas in the Market Place and St Giles in Gilesgate. According to the 19th Century Durham historian, Robert Surtees, the leaden cross was the site of a cattle market, but this market was later moved to the Sands.
Several old lanes and streets joined Claypath in times gone by and one of the most prominent was Wanlass (or Wanless) Lane. Some time during the 19th Century it seems to have changed its name to Providence Row. This is the main route from Claypath to the Sands and was named after a wealthy dyer, called Edward Wanless. Before 1600, the street was called Woodman's Chair. A chair or chare was a narrow turning alley or lane and some readers may remember that Providence Row was once a much narrower thoroughfare than it is today.
Narrow lane: Paradise Lane looking towards Claypath. Paradise Gardens are on the right Another old lane that readers may remember is Rashell's Lane, better known as Paradise Lane. It led off from Claypath near the market place towards the riverside. It skirted the edge of the Paradise Gardens that once occupied a substantial portion of the land between Claypath and the river at Elvet.
In the 19th Century the gardens belonged to Gilbert Henderson, a wealthy carpet manufacturer. The meaning of Paradise is uncertain, but it occurs in other towns and cities and appears to be a reference to a location outside a city wall. Durham's Paradise Lane was noted for open gutters and ash pits and from the early 19th Century the neighbouring garden was notorious for a prominent dunghill. Part of the area now covered by the gardens is occupied by the Leazes Bowl roundabout just to the east of the Prince Bishops Shopping Centre.
In next week's Durham Memories we will remember some of the old pubs and shops of Claypath.
The history of Durham features in my new book, called North-East England: places, history, people and legends published by Business Education Publishers of Sunderland. It is available from local bookshops. If you have memories or old photos of Durham including old pubs, shops, cinemas or well-known personalities, write to David Simpson, Durham Memories, The Northern Echo, Priestgate, Darlington, DL1 1NF. E-mail David.Simpson@nne.co.uk or telephone (01325) 505098.
Published: 30/05/2003
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