MOST people would perhaps classify Belfast with Sarajevo, Beirut, Kabul or even Baghdad. But, although it has its Troubles, to cross Belfast off the list of destinations for a break is to miss a chance to experience a community with a strong sense of history and a determination to look to the future.

The Shankill Road and the Falls Road are still decked out in bunting - although the colourful flags fluttering on the breeze from Belfast Lough are more a statement on politics and religion than a precursor to a celebration.

But, paradoxically, traffic which rumbles up and down both roads now includes buses filled with tourists being lectured by guides who have the unenviable task of condensing Ulster's problems into a half-hour tour.

Windows up and down both streets still remain grilled, paint-spattered police stations still resemble frontier forts and the so-called "peace walls'' still divide Catholic from Protestant.

But, today, the estates - which, until recently, were frequently part of news bulletins around the world - are safe enough to tour on foot, at least during the day while, in the city centre, there are the first signs of a brighter future.

Contrary to what many may expect, the buildings are not pock-marked by shrapnel; indeed, there is little evidence of the sectarian violence which has been so much a part of life in the province.

Instead, local landmarks appear almost pristine - including the City Hall, which inspired an exact copy in Durban in South Africa, and the newly-refurbished Albert Memorial Clock, which has been left with its characteristic lean to the right.

In fact, local legend has it that the statue of Prince Albert has a foot poised on the ledge, ready to jump if the tower leans any further.

The Ulster Museum, the Linen Hall Library and the grounds of the university all help to shed a little light on Belfast's complex past, while the city boasts perhaps the UK's most picturesque zoo, as well as parks and botanical gardens.

But, it is on the banks of the River Lagan - where the keel of The Titantic first kissed the water - that another revolution is happening today.

The first step was to stop the river itself from becoming a foul-smelling silt bed at low tide. Floodgates were installed to prevent some of the water from flowing into the Lough, creating a new aspect to the city which had never enjoyed before.

Next came the city's impressive conference and exhibition facilities and then, in 2001, the Odyssey centre on derelict land overlooking the old Harland and Wolff docks.

Packed with restaurants, shops and an arena used for concerts and for home games for the local ice-hockey team, Belfast's newest attraction is also home to W5. Aimed largely at children, the hugely enjoyable three-storey discovery centre boasts dozens of inter-active displays, which challenge young minds to take a fresh look at aspects of sound, vision and touch which we all take for granted.

And there's more planned too: a Titantic Quarter is in the pipeline, to be built with money from the National Lottery and from Europe, adding more shopping and entertainment venues to a growing list of attractions.

But no visit to Belfast would be complete without sampling the famous Irish hospitality and a pint of Guinness in one of the dozens of city centre pubs - and walking tours are available to ensure the visitor explores the side streets and alleyways to find hidden hostelries with rich histories which often date back centuries.

What's more, Belfast is no longer a ferry-ride away and is now well within the range of just about any pocket.

Flights with easyJet take less than an hour, leaving Newcastle twice a day and with fares starting at just £12.50, including taxes and charges.

Belfast is not so much a day-trip or a short break; it's more of an experience. And all you need to take with you is an open mind.

* Steve Parsley travelled to Belfast with easyJet. More details of flights are available online at www.easyJet.com