I've had a lifetime's attachment to Trafalgar Square which dates back to early childhood and my favourite jigsaw featuring Nelson's Column and the famous lions. Long before I ever visited the capital, I had a clear vision in my head of one of the most famous open spaces in the world.

Recently, the area around the Square has had a real make-over and it's almost as if the planners had suddenly realised what a great space this should be. The area has really been opened up, and the lovely walks along Whitehall and The Mall now have a new feel about them. Even the names of those two streets have a ring to them, with many vital events in Britain's history, past and present, having their roots there.

The developers obviously saw the change coming, and the range of high quality hotels in this area is testament to its re-birth as a great place to be. Even its natural auditorium-like qualities have been rediscovered and this summer sees the first in a series of outdoor concerts taking place. If you're looking for a good hotel for your business trip or leisure break, let me recommend, in best Trafalgar tradition, one very English (with an American connection) and one with a French influence.

The Sofitel St James (a few steps from Trafalgar Square) is "une melange parfait" (a perfect blend - how proud my French teacher would have been!). This is a listed building, and the combination of French style and English tradition do make for a very happy marriage. There's almost a diplomacy about the fittings and antique surroundings, with pictures of Paris being balanced by views of London. A very clever job has been done here, with no expense spared refurbishment and accessories allied to the state of the art communications which today's business traveller expects. The restaurant is particularly good, as you'd expect from an operation under the patronage of Albert Roux. He too brought a lovely touch to this hotel when he discovered a massive silver samovar in Geneva and placed it at the centre of the hotel's stunning Rose Lounge.

Monsieur Roux always reminds me of my BBC Radio days when he cooked in our broadcasting kitchen while I watched in admiration. While chatting live to me and relating some wonderful anecdotes, he produced a dish which was too complicated for most of us to even attempt without distractions. He produced the smile of the day too when he looked at our cooker and pronounced "When does zis have to go back to the ... er .... British Museum?"

His influence is apparent too in one of the best hotel breakfasts I've enjoyed anywhere in the world. Eggs Benedict cooked to order and the view onto St James's is a memorable combination.

The Sofitel St James is not a cheap hotel, but it is very good value. Rooms start from £275 usually, but, like many London hotels, it's well worth investigating weekend rates if you'd like to combine it with a theatre trip or a shopping visit. See www.sofitel.com to find out more. And if you fancy the real treat, the Royal Suite is £1,200 per night, and, last time I was there, it was booked for a solid week - but not by me!

Talking of superb refurbishments, just a cannonball's lob from St James's is the Trafalgar Hilton which has taken a dramatic approach to modern use of a historic building. Because this exterior too is listed it has been carefully restored, but the interior uses breathtaking contemporary design. It really is minimalist; so much so that, on my first visit a year or two ago, my expert London cabbie had trouble finding the place, marked only by a very discreet nameplate. Now, the addition of a blue Hilton flag makes the finding easier.

Some rooms have enormous full length windows with stunning views and, because of their soundproof glazing, you can watch the Trafalgar Square mayhem in an almost surreal way.

On the ground floor is the Rockwell (the American connection I mentioned), London's first bourbon bar, which features 100 varieties of the splendid spirit, three of which were only average! Before the War, this building was known as America House (Canada House is still next door) and was used as offices by the Cunard Shipping Line. Today, you can book the former Cunard Board Room for a business meeting and revel in the history. If fictional history is more your thing, have a look on the first floor for M's office from the classic Bond movie, Dr No.

The Rockwell has become one of the trendiest bars in the capital (I sneaked in though) and Friday night was very busy with the movers and shakers celebrating the end of the working week. Drinks can be a bit pricy (£18 for 2 Manhattans), but you'll get full value in people watching. The style of the bar is excellent with minimalist design and huge pillars echoing the feel of the famous Square outside. This really is one of the hubs of London, with direct routes to Buckingham Palace and Downing Street, and a drink in Rockwell really does place you at the centre of things. As the hotel points out, it really is the capital's most central hotel, as all distances are measured from Nelson's Column!

Downstairs is the outstanding Jago restaurant which changes atmosphere totally between breakfast and dinner. It's worth lingering over breakfast with papers at hand and a very comprehensive buffet. Dinner was superb (and open to non-residents of course) with exemplary and stylish service.

The latest treat to be added to the Trafalgar is the opening of its rooftop garden and this is simply spectacular. With cocktail in hand on a summer's evening, the view over the Square and across to the London Eye and beyond is an overwhelming new view of London and my jigsaw of childhood. See www.hilton.com for more detail and room rates.

Published: 28/08/2003