I'LL confess right away, I have always had a bit of problem with this organic malarkey.

I know it makes all sorts of scientific sense but I have rarely been able to really taste the difference between organic and non-organic produce. Supermarkets in particular seem to use the term organic as little more than a marketing ploy to justify premium prices.

So it was that on arrival at the Arden Arms, South Cowton, betwixt Scorton and Croft just south of Darlington, a faint feeling of unease accompanied the realisation that the O-word was liberally sprinkled around.

Proprietors Marcus Lund and Linda Harley pride themselves on a menu which is 60pc organic. Since taking over the Arden Arms in April this year they have sought out reliable locally-based organic producers. Marcus makes the point that the 40pc non-organic section of his menu means there scope for more (a cue, surely, for other local organic farmers).

The Arden Arms menu specifically points out that the beef is all sourcd from an organic producer near Leeds. Beyond that, which bits were organic and which were not was not immediately discernable but no matter, the end result was a memorable dining experience. And the price of a meal for two plus a couple of glasses of house Merlot (£50) meant that the aforementioned organic unease was quickly dispelled.

The Arden Arms is a dining pub and its interior a comfortable mix of contemporary-looking restaurant (tiled floors, chalkboards etc) and proper pub (hand-pulled Black Sheep, bar stools and snug).

On the early-week evening we visited it was about a third full, with just enough folk to give the place some atmosphere while ensuring the staff had time for everyone. It has to be said the young man who looked after us was discreet attentiveness personified, although in his eagerness to please he tended to whisk empty plates away the moment the last piece of cutlery hit the plate, leaving no opportunity to savour the last few drops of gravy or sauce with the rather fine bread freely provided.

We chose starters from the set menu and both were excellent. My wife opted for the terrine of duck foie gras with homemade chutney and Melba toast (£5.25) while went for the fish soup (£5.95)

The fish soup was perhaps the most balanced I have tasted, fishy certainly with the flavour filled out further with cream and basil. The temptation to overdo the seasoning was successfully avoided. In the middle of the dish lay an enormous pile of salmon, monfish and scallops which turned a starter into something more akin to what chefs and food writers sometimes call a light supper dish. For six quid it was a steal.

The substantial nature of both starters meant the main courses arrived almost too soon. My wife's choice of braised shank of lamb and mash with a lentil and pancetta gravy (£11.75) was considered suitably scummy with the meat dutifully falling off the bone and melting in the mouth.

My pan-fried venison on a mustard mash (£13.50) was a tad chewy but flavoursome enough and the accompanying rich-as-syrup gravy was what was so sorely missed when our waiter silently swooped to remove our plates as we finished eating.

We could manage only one dessert between us, a gooey chocolate tart. Wholly organic or not, it was a first-rate meal .