IT WAS with some anticipation that I set out for The County at Aycliffe Village on a cold and windy night. Following all the media publicity, a visit from Prime Minister Tony Blair and French president Jacques Chirac a couple of years ago, and inclusion in several food guides such as Les Routiers 2003, it was surely time to check for myself what all the hype was about.

The welcome by the barman was friendly and my guest was immediately taken by the range of beers available, including four real ales.

He had a Bull bitter, I had a Coke and we were eagerly shown to our table by a smiling waitress.

We thought it would have been nice to have a drink at the bar area but it is quite small and would be full with seven or eight customers. A shame, particularly as the range of ales is splendid and the atmosphere conducive to sinking a few.

The restaurant now occupies almost all the former pub and is quite spacious with the country kitchen-style tables well laid out to give ample privacy. The lighting was nicely subdued and overall there was a relaxed, informal ambience about the place.

For starters, I had penne pasta with home-made pesto, roasted peppers and artichokes (£5.95). A nicely sized portion, very tasty, especially the peppers. My guest had eggs benedict and was suitably impressed (£6.95). The poached egg was organic, which is the nearest he will ever be to a vegetarian.

I tried grilled fillets of mackerel for the main course, served with baked vine tomatoes stuffed with rice and prawns (£11.95). While mackerel already has a strong natural flavour, the mix of ingredients only added to my enjoyment. Excellent.

My guest had corn-fed breast of chicken filled with smoked bacon and gruyere cheese served on a tomato risotto with frothy goat's cheese sauce (£14.25).

A conversation took place as to what chickens are normally fed on but really this was going nowhere. Suffice to say, it tickled his taste buds and he cleaned his plate.

I had little room for a dessert but we were given 20 minutes to rest which was welcome.

I eventually made room for the lime and strawberry sorbet parfait with citrus fruit salad (£4.95). I was pleased I did as this was the highlight of the evening. I do like desserts but this was heaven. Difficult to describe the gorgeous mingle of flavours but I would highly recommend it to anyone.

My guest was annoyed as while he thought the home-made summer pudding (£4.95) was OK, you could see that he had made the wrong choice. Jealousy was written all over his face.

We tried a bottle of Sauvignon Blanc De Gras 2002. Very fresh, racy with abundant kiwi and gooseberry traits. No, not my words but those of the menu, with which I would have to agree.

We weren't asked to sample the wine which is unusual. It didn't bother us but some would be put out. Then again we had no side plate for our bread and butter, but we managed.

The owner, Andrew Brown, was having a night off but things still ran smoothly. Waitresses were attentive without being overbearing. The place was two-thirds full, not bad for a Monday, with a mix of clientele including an 18th birthday party.

So, if you want fine food and are prepared to pay for it then The County is for you and highly recommended. If you are a two for one specialist then the prices will certainly be off-putting but you could try the bar menu, which is cheaper.

So, excellent food of cordon bleu standard. The hype was justified. Cost for two: £67.70.

You will find the County in Aycliffe Village overlooking the green just off the A167 in between Darlington and Newton Aycliffe. Take care with the turn-off, which can be easily missed.