WE first stumbled on the Holly Hill Inn in a state of some desperation. A family outing to the first Dales Festival of Food and Drink had entered the slightly farcical stage when it became clear that getting a meal in Leyburn that day was going to be impossible due to the thousands who had flocked to the festival and were packing out every available pub, restaurant and cafe.

With two o'clock looming, we beat a hasty retreat towards Richmond and the Holly Hill Inn was the first pub we came to. Situated at the top of the steep Sleegill, there is a risk that motorists coming out of Richmond accelerating away towards Leyburn will miss it altogether.

We clearly had until that day when eyes were desperately scanning the landscape for a welcoming inn. We stopped. Yes, it did food and, yes, they had a table. With two hungry sons in tow, it was the veritable manna from heaven.

That day we had a simple bar meal but noted the above-average standard of cooking and vowed to return. We did and have enjoyed a number of excellent meals in the last two years.

A recent visit was made in the week when pub food was the subject of extensive criticism in a widely-reported study. The study concluded that in too many instances pub food was predictable, dull and not very good value. How would the Holly Hill measure up on this occasion?

Very well, it is pleasing to report.

At £45 for two starters, main courses, desserts and a couple of drinks it was excellent value. Chef Matt Robinson, who has worked for Anthony Worrall Thompson and Harvey Nicks, has returned from London to his home town and brought with him some sophisticated culinary style.

He describes his cooking as modern British with a Mediterranean and Asian twist. Dull and predictable it certainly isn't.

Our two starters - salad of crispy duck with spring onion and spicy plum radish (£5.75) and seared scallops with fennel, slow-roast tomatoes and gremolata (£6.95) - both hit the spot. The only criticism that could be levelled was that the scallops were a tad overcooked.

The main courses were similarly well received. The braised lamb shank with roasted vegetables and rosemary gravy (£10.95) was judged to be tender and flavoursome. The pan-fried breast of duck with pear sauce (£10.95)was a perfect fruit-meat combination, the pear nicely cutting through the richness of the duck.

To finish, we shared a hefty platter of cheeses and a super-smooth mango and lime fool with home-baked shortbread. At £3.50 each these were both substantial, reminding us that this was really good food and keenly priced.

All the above was served swiftly but unobtrusively in the pub's partly stone-flagged dining room which, although only three years old, has the feel of a much older establishment. In the summer, tables by the windows have views of the attractively laid-out garden.

Geraldine Burke, who runs the Holly Hill with her husband Stephen, said she had never advertised the restaurant business, relying instead on word of mouth recommendations. Trade had increased, particularly since chef Robinson arrived a year ago.

Although we have never eaten there when the restaurant was absolutely packed, we suspect booking is a good idea on Friday and Saturday nights. The word about good value and creative cooking at the Holly Hill is clearly spreading.