Endeavour, but no Russell

Finally, I made it to the floor by way of a nearby table but rather unwisely, I had slung my hammock at the bottom of the steps that led to the open deck above and, despite my thermals and cosy sleeping bag, I was frozen stiff. The thought of wandering about outside for an hour was anathema to me, but what could I do? No-one had actually threatened the use of the cat-o'-nine-tails for insubordination but I wondered just how authentic life on board the Endeavour really was.

I had joined the ship in London with a group of other journalists to celebrate the launch of Australian director Peter Weir's new film, Master and Commander: The Far Side of the World. Based on the novels by Patrick O'Brian, the swashbuckling epic is set during the Napoleonic Wars and stars Russell Crowe as Captain 'Lucky' Jack Aubrey.

Although some of us were disappointed that we didn't make it as far as the Galapagos Islands - the setting for the film - our two-day trip up and down the Thames did give us a taste of life on board an 18th century sailing ship

The Endeavour is a regular visitor to the North-East, birthplace of Captain Cook, and had just left Middlesbrough after an extended stay. She was built in Freemantle in Western Australia and completed in 1994 at a cost of more than £10m. She was built to the same specifications as the original Endeavour but with 20th century additions, including engines, electricity and modern navigational equipment.

With a working crew of 52, 16 of whom are permanent, she has travelled across the globe as a floating museum. When she docks in a new port, all traces of modernity are hidden away and visitors can see how Cook and his men lived on board.

As part of his research for Master and Commander, Peter Weir made two trips on the Endeavour, soaking up the atmosphere. According to Captain Chris Blake, the director was keen to muck in, climbing the rigging, steering the ship and doing the occasional night watch.

"He was travelling as a supernumerary so he didn't have to do anything but he wanted to have the full experience so he could make the film as authentic as possible," he said.

We journalists were in a similar position. After a session in basic rope handling, we were given the opportunity to do as much or as little as we liked. I decided to go aloft, clambering onto the outside of the rigging and picking my way carefully upwards. It's second nature to the crew, who scamper up in a matter of seconds but I don't think I did too badly. Having said that, I was doing it in the relative calm of the Thames; I'm not sure I'd fare quite as well in rough seas, certainly not in the seas that featured in the film.

The terrifying storm Aubrey encounters around Cape Horn on HMS Surprise was partially created by special effects, but much of the footage was shot from the Endeavour as she rounded the Horn. On screen, the waves are so massive they look like they could engulf the entire audience. None of us could begin to imagine what it was like in real life so we asked Chris.

"Wet," he replied, nonchalantly.

Also travelling on board was Gordon Laco, the technical advisor on Master and Commander, whose task was to create authenticity in everything from the way the knots were tied to the amount of debris produced when a cannon ball smashes through the side of the ship.

As fascinating as this was, we were far more interested in finding out what Russell Crowe is like off screen, and according to Gordon, he's a "great guy" who doesn't deserve his hard man image.

"Russell was brilliant. He wanted to know everything and do everything properly. He put everything into the role. That's why he's so convincing in the film."

For some of the journalists, the most difficult part of the trip was not being able to smoke for 48 hours. Cigarettes aren't the best idea on a wooden ship that's coated in tar and is carrying supplies of gunpowder but on the first afternoon, thick smoke began billowing up from the galley and onto the deck. We began to wonder whether our colleagues had finally succumbed to their nicotine cravings or we were on fire. Happily, it turned out to be the crew firing up the impressive 18th century oven to make us a traditional stew, the sort of food that would have been served up to Cook's crew.

Dinner was followed by the singing of sea shanties and despite not knowing the words, we all sang along, suffused by the spirit of camaraderie that characterises life on the Endeavour.

And then it was time to sling our hammocks. We were given a demonstration by crew members and told to make sure we tied our knots tightly or we would find ourselves plummeting to the floor in the middle of the night. Some people decided not to take the risk, choosing the floor as a first resort but despite its drawbacks, the hammock was probably the more comfortable option.

The next morning, we were called upon to haul in the anchor. We all lined up round the capstan, braced ourselves against the bars and began to push. One of the crew sat in the middle, playing shanties on a violin while everyone else clapped along. We certainly needed the encouragement. Anchors, not surprisingly, are heavy, and this one took us about half an hour to pull in.

A few hours later, our voyage almost over, we passed through Tower Bridge and Endeavour fired her cannons. The crowds who had gathered to watch cheered and I felt a little thrill of pride that I had been part of the crew.

I may not be quite ready to run away to sea permanently - I like my home comforts too much - but I could certainly be persuaded to take another trip.

l For more information about Endeavour, visit www.barkendeavour.com.au

Master and Commander is showing in cinemas from Thursday