Elegance made easy

Indeed, even as a child, she preferred to accompany her mother to the dressmaker's rather than go to the movies. Her talent for design and making costume jewellery led her to open her own fashion house and her success led her eventually to Nina Ricci, where she was the director for years.

Dariaux's time there gave her a huge amount of experience in selecting clothes which would flatter all sizes and shapes of women.

''To transform a plain woman into an elegant one was, and still is, my mission in life,'' she says.

Now, with the festive season upon us, she is offering some timely advice on how to dress with poise in her latest book, A Guide To Elegance.

Here are some of the things you should consider if you want to look the picture of elegance:

ACCESSORIES

Gloves, hats, shoes and handbags are vital to looking elegant. Essentials include a set of accessories in black and another in brown, plus a pair of beige shoes and a beige straw handbag for summer. Never wear white shoes in a city, only wear brightly coloured shoes in the evening with an evening dress. Never buy anything on impulse that does not fit into your well-established wardrobe. And if your purse will stretch to it, buy expensive shoes, bags and gloves rather than cheap ones. You can spot the difference immediately.

COATS

The smartest coats are the simplest ones, whose elegance resides in the quality of the material, the colour and the refinement of their basic lines. Short, plump women should avoid full, belted coats and double-breasted designs. They should go for princess lines, collars cut away from the base of the neck and flat fur trimmings. Avoid seams and insets that have no functional purpose.

DRESSES

The dress wardrobe of an elegant woman doesn't have to be extensive. It might comprise a black crepe dress - simple but chic - for cocktails, dinner and the theatre; a white wool dress for lunch, afternoon and informal evenings; and a bright dinner dress, long or short, in rich wool or silk.

SUITS

A good suit is the foundation of a woman's wardrobe, ideal to wear all day in every season. Don't skimp on your purchase. Whether it is in tweed, linen or wool, the only requirements of a good suit are an excellent cut, a material that has some body and a stiff inner lining in the jacket. The most delicate point is the sleeve, which should be smooth around the armhole, without the slightest sign of a pucker or leg-of-mutton effect. Long jackets are better for women with big bottoms, while tailored collars and lapels have a slimming effect on big-chested women. Flat-chested women are often more elegant in collarless, buttoned cardigan jackets. A wool suit can be dressed up with a simple velvet or wool hat in winter, a pale silk blouse, a jewelled clip, plain earrings and a pearl necklace.

SWEATERS

Sweaters can be more elegant than a nondescript dress, provided you follow a few rules. Women in the city should only wear solid-coloured sweaters of cashmere, silk or other similar synthetic material. The open neckline of a V-neck sweater should always be filled in with a scarf. Heavy knits, stripes, cable stitching and all kinds of eccentric designs should only be worn with trousers.

EARRINGS

Drop earrings are dressy and shouldn't be worn in the daytime. Plain gold earrings are never elegant in the evening or with a dressy outfit. If you are already wearing a chunky necklace, avoid adding earrings too.

HANDBAGS

You will add distinction to your overall look if you carry an elegant handbag, the size of which should be in proportion to your own. The larger the handbag, the less dressy it is. Again, quality is synonymous with expense but one top quality bag will outlive three or four cheap ones. A well co-ordinated wardrobe requires four handbags: a large bag for travel, an afternoon bag to wear with city outfits, probably medium-sized of fine black calfskin with an attractive clasp; an evening purse of silk, satin or velvet, preferably black; a beige straw handbag for the summer.

OLDER WOMEN'S STYLE

Older ladies should stick to pastel shades, soft crepes and sheer wools. Necklines can be decollete for the evening but never strapless. Scarves, stoles and pashminas are useful, as are hats with brims that shade the eyes. Those over 70 don't have to give up wearing high heels, just choose them lower and sturdier. If you have varicose veins, wear nylon stretch stockings in a neutral shade. Avoid narrow straight skirts which ride up above the knees when you sit down.

l A GUIDE TO ELEGANCE by Genevieve Antoine Dariaux (HarperCollins, £10)