Gibraltar has much to offer the British tourist and, as The Rock celebrates the tercentenary of its link to Britain, Chris Gibbings enjoys a winter trip to the sun.

A break to warm sunny weather in the depths of the British winter can't be bad - with cable car rides to enjoy magnificent views, boat trips to see the dolphins, and the cadging Barbary Apes on the rampage as the icing on the cake.

That's the prospect on offer on Gibraltar, a corner of Spain that remains British. In 2004, The Rock boldly celebrates its tercentenary, the 300th anniversary of its historic link with Britain.

Even Foreign Secretary Jack Straw might get a friendly welcome at the end of the Costa del Sol this year, despite frequent Foreign Office efforts to hand the place back to Spain.

Monarch Scheduled has chosen an excellent time to launch an impressive no-frills service, both from Manchester and Luton. We left Manchester on a dark and rainy evening. Barely 150 minutes later, we were enjoying a warm welcome from both the climate and the locals.

Gibraltarians are keen to remain British - and with a community centred around the base of the majestic 426-metre high Rock, visitors find they have everything they need within walking distance or a short taxi ride.

Shops with VAT-free goods, restaurants, bars and pubs (some of the last two with TV for those football games you dread missing) are all around. Seafood restaurants lie along Marina Bay, Queensway Quay and Catalan Bay for fish lovers, to provide natural breaks from the tourist attractions which are all within a few square miles.

An obvious first stop is The Rock itself, ascended by cable car in six minutes from the Botanical Gardens. It's a grand ride for spectacular views to Morocco in Africa across the thinnest stretch of the Med, and a restaurant is there the moment you step out on the peak.

This is one of the points on the Rock where tail-less apes know they're in with a chance, snatching any unguarded bag in case it contains food. They are semi-wild and strong (even the largest can amaze with the distances they leap) but you can get within a few feet of them to take photos as they are well used to people.

Back in the 1980s, James Bond put the Rock on the cinematic map with a leap off the peak in a Land Rover at the start of The Living Daylights. If you're a movie fan, you may be surprised that there haven't been more big films made around the Rock with all its views and exclusive hotels.

Within the Rock are 34 miles of large tunnels, many of them free to explore with a guide although others remain closed to the public. Tunnelling here dates back to the Great Siege of Gibraltar in the 18th century. Galleries dug out for defence face towards Spain in the form of 7ft wide and 8ft high tunnels with firing points.

Heading downwards, but still more than 300 metres above sea level, you will find the beautiful grotto of St Michael's Cave. Stalactites (the deposits which project down from the roof) and stalagmites (the ones rising up from the floor) are among the features you'll catch in your snaps. Winding passages lead to and from the main chamber, now a softly-lit underground auditorium for concerts.

Gibraltar's location, at the entrance to the Mediterranean, always made it immensely valuable, and often vital, to Britain militarily, especially in the fight against Nazi Germany during the Second World War. But the area's military history goes back much further.

The Moorish Castle dates back to the 12th century when the fortifications were set up and Rosia Bay boasts a 100-ton gun, manufactured in 1870.

The four-star Caleta Hotel, where we stayed, is ideally located around the Rock away from the city and is the perfect quiet spot for relaxation between daytime sightseeing and a night on the town.

The Stakis International Casino Club, with grand views across to Africa and Spain, is an obvious venue to check out with a chance to dine at its restaurant before you hit the gaming tables. Nightclubs are open for drinking and dancing into the early hours and there is at least one venue where customers are almost obliged to dance on the tables.

Although the autumn weather was good enough for sunbathing in the sheltered parts of the Rock, our trip to see the dolphins in the bay had to be postponed twice as the wind was a little too strong. It was worth the wait. Most dolphins in the Bay of Gibraltar had left for warmer climes for the winter but there were enough left to put on a show.

Dolphins love attention and never fail to charm, leaping and racing alongside and in front of boats. They can keep up all this fun for as long as boat-trippers so we headed back to shore after about an hour of their company.

Back ashore, crystal glass enthusiasts should visit the glass factory at the northern end of Casemates Square to see experts use hand methods of shaping and working molten glass.

The square lies at the end of Main Street, a bustling shopping area where availability of the VAT-free goods on sale makes the urge to spend that much stronger.

As all the attractions of Gibraltar are necessarily within a fairly short distance of each other, you'll be less tired after your explorations here than in other holiday destinations.

Although Gibraltar has high hopes to be a holiday hotspot in its Tercentenary Year, there is little it can do about its airport. The runway is tight, and a challenge even to experienced pilots.

In fact my flight-simulator enthusiast brother rang soon after my return to say he'd just ''flown'' to Gibraltar. He had doubts about his computer software, though.

''Hey, Chris! Guess which is the only part of Gibraltar missing on my simulator programme.''

I went for the obvious choice.

''The Rock?'' I replied.

My guess was right. Perhaps my brother should get out more. Maybe he could try Gibraltar.

You just have to go there.

TRAVELFACTS

Chris Gibbings flew Monarch Scheduled, which has three Manchester-Gibraltar flights per week from £69. Price includes in-flight meal with wine, drinks, newspapers, headsets.

Seats can be pre-booked free of charge. The Monarch Scheduled Luton-Gibraltar service runs five times weekly in winter, also from £69. Reservations: 08700 40 63 00 and www.flymonarch.com.

Web bookings include £6 discount per return flight (£3 per one-way flight).

Caleta Hotel rooms, from £110 per night single or double, can be booked on 01608 731804.

Bridge Travel City Breaks (0870 191 7287) offers two nights' B&B at Caleta Hotel from £255 in 2004.

Superb Gibraltar 2004 travel guide from Gibraltar Tourist Board, Arundel Great Court, 178/9 Strand, London WC2R 1EL, tel 0207 836 0777, lists operators, airlines and what to see and do.