THERE'S something vaguely disconcerting about choosing a meal from the menu in a restaurant with a picture of Margaret Thatcher glowering over you.

Under such a stern gaze, this diner had a strong feeling that he should not mess about while choosing what to eat. As the myriad choices on the extensive a la carte menu were added to the extensive list of specials, there was real sense of panic setting in as the waitress made her way towards us, pad and pen in hand. Suddenly, I knew what it must have been like to be a junior minister at cabinet meetings presided over by the Iron Lady.

I should, perhaps, explain. The restaurant in question is Ministers in Sedgefield, which has a strong governmental theme about it. There are pictures of assorted Prime Ministers on the walls and the current Prime Minister among its customers - one T Blair. It is decorated in a style that one might describe as Whitehall chic - warm red walls and deep-pile carpets with comfy Chesterfield sofas.

As already described the menu is extensive - a veritable White Paper of culinary clauses - and diners are reminded at the conclusion, in the words of Harold Macmillan, that "they had never had it so good".

Certainly, making a choice was tough ministerial assignment but with the job finally done we were escorted to our table by the restaurant's youthful but briskly efficient staff. At times, it should be said, that efficiency appeared to smack of condescension as each course was brought to the table with a brief explanation of what it was, just in case we did not know what a carrot was.

We were sure that was not intended but it did bring to mind those scenes from Yes Minister when the hapless Minister Jim Hacker (Paul Eddington) was kept in line by his overbearing Permanent Secretary, Sir Humphrey Appleby (the late Sir Nigel Hawthorne).

The starters were prefaced by warm bread and some complimentary canaps. A further thoughtful touch was being asked if we wanted a jug of iced water. This was something of a relief, for we had noted that a certain Mike Amos (the esteemed food writer with another newspaper published in these parts) had taken exception to being charged £4.50 for bottle of Gleneagles mineral water on a visit to this establishment in 2003.

We had brought our pre-dinner drinks to the table and it was gratifying not to be placed under pressure to buy a bottle of wine, we settled instead for a couple of glasses of the house red.

The food lived up to the early promise. The leek and potato soup (£3.50) chosen by my wife, Sylvia, was well seasoned and very hot. My spinach and ricotta tortellini in light Parmesan cream sauce(£4.95) was as light as pasta can be.

The main courses also passed muster. My supreme of pheasant wrapped in smoked bacon on mash with Cumberland sauce (£14.75) was rich and gamey. The chef had resisted the temptation to "sex-up" the mash so the plain potato (no cream or butter) nicely cut through the rich meat and sauce.

Sylvia's rack of lamb with shallot and Madeira sauce (£15.60) was just on the bloodless side of pink, thankfully exactly as ordered. There had been a moment of difficulty over the order, as it happens. When Sylvia had requested the lamb be served "not too pink" the waitress had rather sharply asked what that meant, exactly.

After a stunned if brief pause, we had agreed on the definition "no blood" but Mrs Thatcher's stern gaze had seemed to intensify momentarily. I could see Sir Humphrey's eyes cast towards the heavens.

No matter, the lamb was beautifully presented and ate well, accompanied by the precisely-heralded and carefully-cooked vegetables.

Then there came that moment diners encounter at many establishments. The dessert menu is offered and accepted against better judgment amid half-hearted mutterings of "I don't think I can manage anything else."

The tussle between temptation and sated reality, on this occasion, was settled on the side of caution, helped considerably by a rather uninspiring selection. However, with good coffees to finish, the bill came to a shade over £50 which we felt was about right for the quality of the cooking and the little extras like the canaps.

Our only advice, given the no-messing-about-approach of the staff, is to prepare yourself appropriately before entering. Don't dither, say what you mean and you'll enjoy an excellent meal. Mrs T would have approved.