I WAS e-mailed during the week by a Northern Echo reader who wants to know what type of clematis would grow in a pot with a frame in it, and also, what other plants were particularly good in pots.

I would suggest trying some of the summer flowering clematis (2nd early or late and 3rd early) if you intend to keep it in the pot.

These will not outgrow the frame like the Montanas, and can be cut right back down to the ground every winter. These are the ones who generally have large, colourful flowers. Ones that have a good reputation include Nelly Moser (white and pink), Jackmanii (deep purple) and Ernest Markham (deep red), but the best thing to do is to go down to your nearest garden centre and see what takes your fancy.

You can use any multi-purpose compost, but when using pots it is always worth investing in a few handfuls of water-retaining crystals. This makes the water last longer during the dryer times of the year. Make sure to put the clematis deep in the soil.

Clematis often does better if ground cover plants are grown in the soil around their roots.

Something with a shallow rooting system is best, like alyssum, nepeta or pansy. This gives the lower stem some shade.

There are many plants that grow well in pots. Small shrubs like choisya, hebe and lavender are popular choices. Most perennials will survive too, and plants like the geranium, delphinium and gysophilia can look stunning. Don't forget about the grasses, ferns and hostas. Small trees can be grown in containers too. The ornamental acers are very well adapted and there are several varieties of fruiting 'ballerina' apple trees that will actually produce fruit in pots.

The most important thing to remember is to keep the pots watered, but not waterlogged. A mulch on the top of the soil will help to retain moisture and keep pests at bay.

JOBS THIS WEEK

NOW that the leaves have died down, it is time to dig up, lift and divide large, congested clumps of snowdrops. Plant them straight into the ground, or in pots.

CUT back shoots of the poinsettia (if it has survived this long) and keep it in a bright position. Once new shoots start to develop, start feeding with plant food.

SOW varieties of sunflowers in pots in the greenhouse or on windowsills to create a cheerful display later in the year.

WE have been doing up the entrance noticeboard at Nature's World and have been searching through the archive of photographs that have been taken over the year. I picked one out that depicted the upper tier of the hydroponicum and made some exclamation about the rate of growth that the bananas have made. Another member of staff (who shall remain nameless, but who thankfully doesn't work in the garden department) asked if bananas grow underground. We all stopped what we were doing and turned around slowly in disbelief.

Then I carefully went through the growing and fruiting cycle of the banana with her.

The banana plant is actually a member of the herb family. They are not trees as such. What you see towering out of the ground is actually a false stem, made out of overlapping leaves. It is not a very long-lived plant and most do not last more than a few years, but what they do is send out suckers from beneath the soil, which form new offset shoots. These can be gently prised away from the parent plant and potted on. Given the right conditions, they will soon grow into a good-sized plant.

The fruit comes off a large drooping inflorescence with dark purple leathery bracts (leaves that look like flowers) that enclose the hand-shaped clusters of two inch long flowers. These usually appear in mid-summer and are slowly followed by the fruit. The 'stem' may die back after producing the fruit, leaving room for the offsets to flourish. There are at least 35 different varieties of bananas, from the edible ones and plantains to the purely ornamental ones. The one that most of our shop-bought bananas come from is related to the one that was brought back to and grown at Chatsworth a few centuries ago, namely Musa cavendishii (the Canary Islands banana). It is a dwarf mutant of Musa acuminate.

As with many mutant and hybrids, the Dwarf Cavendish has seedless fruits. It is infertile. The only way to propagate it is by using the suckering shoots. The main drawback with this is that if the parent plant suffers some disease, accident or setback, this can lead to a loss of the whole crop.

Unfortunately, this is happening in some of the banana producing countries. A disease is wiping out the commercial crop. The race is on to try and find another species, or hybrid that is as tasty and productive as the little Cavendish.

In the mean time, we at Nature's World shall continue to nurture the yellow-skinned fruits that are being produced on the upper tier of the hydroponicum.

Brigid presents Ask about Gardening every Sunday lunchtime from 12-2pm on BBC Radio Cleveland 95FM. Send your questions to be answered in The Northern Echo to Brigid at brigidpress@hotmail. com or write to her c/o Nature's World, Ladgate Lane, Acklam, Middlesbrough.

Published: 03/04/2004