St Hilda's, the handsome church on Hartlepool's Headland, is enjoying something of a resurrection after a £500,000 revamp.

JOYOUSLY transformed, Hartlepool took delivery on Tuesday evening of another repolished gem. The 12th century St Hilda's church, high and handsome on the Headland, was again dedicated after a £500,000 facelift.

"Re-ordering", the invitation called it. We'd last been inside St Hilda's just a few weeks earlier, when workmen still toiled and dust still danced. Re-order out of chaos.

Not everyone approves, of course, not everyone ever will. A chap in the Harbour of Refuge - afterwards, understand - pondered his pint and announced that his wife had boycotted the special service ("the church was fine the way it was") but would continue to attend on Sundays.

"Mind," he added, as if to underline his spouse's self-sacrifice, "she won't be putting owt in the collection."

The great majority not only approve, however, but call down blessings upon the architect and the Almighty (not necessarily in that sequence).

"A great symbol of the living love of God," said the Bishop of Jarrow; "a dream come true," said the Rev Peter Kashouris; "a mighty abbey church, preserved and proud," says the latest guide to Hartlepool's ever-developing delights.

(The guide also describes the ancient Town Wall which "cynically" guards the Headland. Whilst walls may have ears, they had not hitherto been accorded emotions - and if emotions, why on earth cynicism?)

The train had arrived at 6.30, the service began at seven. The taxi rank stood empty, Asda's needs being considered greater. Mr Stanley Holloway's song about getting to the church on time came discordantly to mind, but died with the ultimate driver's disdain.

We arrived with ten seconds to spare, wind-blown choir already outside, the sea around the old Battery a sort of mawkish, minesweeper grey. The Bishop, the Rt Rev John Pritchard, emerged on the stroke - his third Hartlepool visit in a week.

"Each time it's been like this," he said with a brief glance heavenwards. Not even half a million quid is going to buy the weather.

Pausing at several points for prayer - "We stand outside the door of St Hilda's, a place that some pass by and others turn into" - choir and congregation followed him into the admirably enlightened church.

Mr Kashouris, both inspiration and engine behind the rebirth, left St Hilda's last year to become Vicar of St Oswald's in Durham and diocesan ecumenical officer.

"I just think people will find it easier to worship here," he said. "Previously it was a little bit heavy, perhaps intimidating. The church was always a little bit out of control, never really a handle on it. It was a classical church but quite hard for people to break into.

"We always had a dream of what could happen, but it's a miracle that it's actually come true. Everything has come together beautifully, an investment in the people of Hartlepool and an investment which will remain."

He had left a little reluctantly. "It was like leaving a part of me behind. I think I gave the bishop and archdeacon a good few hours of angst."

His successor, the aptly named Jon Goode - Sunderland lad, originally - had been licensed just the week previously by the Bishop of Durham. "There's a real opportunity for welcome here, not just for the people of Hartlepool but for visitors," he said. "It gives people a real sense of what Hartlepool has been and can be, a real sign of hope for the future."

The regionally funded North Hartlepool Partnership provided £488,000, the folk of St Hilda's another £30,000. Denis Waller, the Partnership chair, talked of tourism potential, of attracting more visitors, of a boost to the local economy.

They'll discover a wonderful church revealed in all its ancient and modern glory, from the story of St Hilda - Abbess from 649-657 before plodging off down the coast to Whitby - to Captain Webb, who apparently was a 17th century Governor of Hartlepool and not the chap who swam the Channel.

Videos, computer generated images, sound wands and interactive touch-screens - any infants school child will explain - help tell the story on a tour of the church and create a picture of how it has changed. It's impressively and imaginatively achieved, though if there's a few bob in the corporate change the publication of a church guide would be a welcome bonus.

The altar and chancel cross are new, pulpit and Victorian pews restored. "Think of all the good times preachers will have in this pulpit," said Bishop John. "Whether anyone else will have a good time remains to be seen."

St Hilda's, he added, had experienced "something of a resurrection". All Hartlepool knows the feeling.

* St Hilda's church is open, free of charge, on Wednesdays, Saturdays and Sundays from 2-4pm, with tea and coffee available in the new "welcome" area. The principal Sunday service is at 10.30am; details www.hartlepool-sthilda.org.uk