IT must be some form of recommendation when an Italian eaterie in this country is patronised by Italians.

A group of six were tucking in at Panetti's in Bedale the night we called to sample the cafe/bistro's fare. And they were clearly regulars too, judging by the jovial welcome they received from the owner.

Nino Curla's well known in these parts. He used to own the Romanby Court, once Northallerton's premier eating establishment and renowned for its simple, good value fare served in comfortable surroundings. There was nothing remotely pretentious about the Romanby Court - a sign that Mr Curla knew his market and customers well.

He took over what was Plummers Restaurant in Bedale's North End three years ago. Plummers had enjoyed a decent reputation but on my only visit I had endured an evening memorable only for its chilliness and the blandest, most tired piece of steak I have ever had the misfortune of eating.

So, as we walked over the cobbles towards Panetti's front door, the question on my mind was whether the old Romanby Court spirit and style been successfully transferred along the A684.

I am pleased to report that Mr Curla has brought similar standards to his new venture. The cooking is conventional rather than adventurous but it's consistent. The menu is strong on Italian standards and the prices are very reasonable.

Panetti's is more cafe than restaurant which is presumably why it's called a cafe/bistro. Extensively-restored from a couple of old cottages, the decor is simple. White-washed walls, beamed ceilings and bright lighting make it appear a little on the stark side. Glass-topped tables and wipe-clean menus add to the rather utilitarian feel. There's a room upstairs which has more of a restaurant feel plus there is Chambers Restaurant next door which Mr Curla keeps for large bookings and parties.

Panetti's featues a standard menu and two specials boards - one fish and one meat.

We selected from both, Sylvia opting for goujons of haddock (£4.50) and loin of pork with a port and Stilton sauce (£8.50) and I went for a half portion of spaghetti classico with tomato, bacon and grilled chicken (£5.95) and salmon and spinach wrapped in filo pastry (£10.50).

Other dishes which tempted us were fresh mussels (£4.95), swordfish and tomato ratatouille (£11), rack of lamb (£13) and pork fillet with plum sauce and stir-fried vegetables (£8.80)

The haddock was tender and the coating crisp. The spaghetti was al dente and full of tomato and bacon. The grilled chicken introduced a crispiness which helped offset the slightly too-thick consistency of the sauce.

The loin of pork was moist and its accompanying sauce strong on port if not the Stilton. My salmon fillet was a clever idea which almost worked brilliantly. The challenge facing the chef was to keep the pastry crisp. This was achieved but the spinach which lay between the filo and the fish was really no more than an after-thought. Nevertheless the fish was not overcooked as is often the case with restaurant salmon

Two sweets - light and dark chocolate mousse and strawberry meringue sundae (£3.25 each)- disappeared without pause and with two coffees the bill was just a tad under £40.

As our meal came to a close the Italian men's voices rose to a pleasant crescendo. I would have liked to have been able to tell you that that my excellent grasp of spoken Italian enabled me to deduce that these were contract workers employed on extending the Richmond Foods ice cream factory at nearby Leeming Bar.

Sadly, I didn't have a clue what they were saying. But Mr Curla was able to explain a day or two later that the team had been working at Richmond's for many months and ate at his restaurant every day.

You can't get a stronger recommendation than that.