AFTER a long, uneventful flight across Atlantic and continental America the heart cannot fail to skip a beat at the first sight of the majestic Rockies.

Sprawling into seeming infinity, the crumpled crust of the earth holds the promise of untold delights. Indeed, over the next couple of days, it will yield a sensory feast of autumnal yellows and oranges, rivers bursting with salmon, snow-capped peaks and turquoise lakes as we join what is rightfully listed as one of the 50 things to do before you die - a trip on the famed Rocky Mountaineer.

Tantalising thoughts of what is to come swirl as we swoop down into Vancouver, a city mostly hidden by a verdant blanket of trees. The airport is a model of brisk efficiency and the complete ease of our arrival is to be the hallmark of a trip in the total care of Saga Holidays - the masters of package holidays for the over 50s, where nothing is left to chance.

Our host and comforting presence throughout is Serges Humbert-Droz, who oozes Gallic charm. A taste of just how special our treatment will be comes on the first evening at the plush Georgian Hotel, where a small army of synchronised waiters whisk off the silver covers to all our meals on the silent count of three.

There is a tangible vibrancy to Vancouver, with almost everyone hastening along gripping the obligatory cup of Starbucks. This place seems to run on caffeine. You almost expect to find a sign proclaiming "no coffee stops for two blocks, tank up here". The city and its environs has a lot to offer. To start with, there is Stanley Park, where an army of fitness fanatics exercise, with views to kill for.

A must do is the Capilano Bridge, the world's longest suspension bridge. A warning for the queasy: its swaying motion can leave you decidedly motion sick. You do get a certificate for your troubles, though.

We head on to Grouse Mountain and its spectacular views of the city. The key attractions are two orphaned grizzly bears and entertainment from "genuine" lumberjacks.

Back at ground level, we catch a river taxi - one of a fleet of quaint bath tub-sized craft - to Granville Island, which boasts a thriving market and an excellent seafood restaurant.

The following morning we take a commuter seaplane to the island of Victoria and city of the same name, which, through some quirk, is capital of British Columbia. A charming place, it boasts a museum with an impressive array of relics of the First Nation (the correct term for native Americans) and a statue of Captain Cook (he seems to have got everywhere).

The next morning we finally walk the red carpet on to the Rockie Mountaineer - a treatment extended throughout our journey. As guests on the Gold Maple Leaf class we enjoy a luxury cabins with panoramic views from full-length dome windows and gourmet meals. The Red Class, which costs half the price for the two-day journey, features big picture windows.

After an interminable wait for a freight train, which always has the right of way on this route, we are off. I head for the open air platform, where I spend most of the trip in childlike wonder, snapping away rolls of film.

Following the lazy Fraser River we start snaking upward. One can only marvel at the ingenuity of railway pioneers who forged their way through the upper reaches of these valleys; none more challenging than the aptly named Hell's Gate.

Here, at its narrowest point, as much as 200 million gallons of water pound and surge through the 110ft wide gorge every minute. Men were lowered on ropes and makeshift ladders down steep canyon walls, where they would drill holes to pack full of dynamite, before scurrying back up to safety before the blasts.

The challenge never presented a problem to the salmon, which have swam up here on their way to their spawning grounds for millennia. That is, until a landslide throttled the river in 1914 and man had to compensate them by constructing series of concrete fishways to allow them a slightly gentler route.

We are privileged to be on time to witness the salmon run. A thick vein of black on both sides of the river is pointed out to us. Closer examination reveals individual whoppers. Nose to tail, there are about two million returning after a three-year roam around Pacific.

Ever onward. Skuzzy Creek, North Bend, Kanaka (named after Hawaiians who panned for gold), Avalanche Alley, Jaws of Death Gorge, Murray Creek falls, Black Canyon to Kamloops for an overnight stop.

The next morning we travel past Shuswap Lake and the mouth of the Adams River. It is the final destination of the sockeye salmon, whose bodies float in increasing numbers, spent from their exertions.

The dry, sparsely vegetated sagebrush of the south Thompson river leads to the densely-forested Columbia River, with its shimmering lakes and streams. Just when you think you've seen it all, it gets still better and better. Every twist and turn presents a new jaw-dropping vista. At Castle Mountain we pass through a system of tunnels, doubling back twice to rise 100ft. It is still regarded as a railway engineering marvel.

After a night in Banff, where the film Shine was shot, we are blessed with a crystal sky as we travel through the famed National Park, taking in mountains, forests, rivers and lakes of a colour which defy description. The highlight of the day is a visit to the Athabasca glacier on the Columbia Icefield, where the air is so rare the heart quickens at the slightest exertion.

We are taken up the glacier in big-wheeled beasts, where Serges produces bottle of fortifying brandy.

Before we leave Banff a real Mountie, resplendent in his ceremonial dress, is dutifully rolled out for our benefit. Sadly, all good things come to an end and we make our way across the prairie to Calgary, home of the famous Calgary Stampede - and, incidentally, the town where Eddie the Eagle made his name.

Flying out First Class on Air Canada, a push of a button and I recline, playing back the whirl of sights and sounds that will remain firmly imbedded in my mind. The memories will last a lifetime.

FACTFILE

The Rocky Mountaineer Tour is offered as an 11-night package in the Saga Travellers World brochure, starting at £1,849.

The price includes: all breakfasts, two lunches, one barbecue dinner and one farewell dinner; insurance and cancellation cover; excursions to Victoria, Vancouver and Athabascar Glacier by sno-coach and travel to your UK airport.

Booking: 0800 056 5880 and website www.saga.co.uk/holidays