IT would perhaps be not unreasonable to assume that when a much-praised restaurant changes hands, standards, although they may not slip exactly, will almost certainly change.

Restaurateur David Barnard ran the Crab and Lobster at Asenby, near Thirsk, for over 12 years. He won the title of the UK's best seafood pub in 2000 and was voted restaurant of the year by the Good Pub Guide three times in ten years. He would be a hard act to follow.

Nightclub chain Vimac Leisure, which bought the Crab and Lobster and adjoining Crab Manor Hotel, pledged to keep the atmosphere and service at the quirky pub "true to the original vision". If this meant leaving all the strange and bizarre curios that litter the bar and dining room, then they have certainly kept their word. Like the junk in the attic that nobody in the family wants, but can't bear to throw away, the place is festooned with ancient musical instruments, decaying bits of costume, toys, a Betty's brown paper carrier bag, sporting trophies - many hanging from the ceiling caught in yards of ropey fishing net, presumably lest they fall on hapless diners.

I suppose they could provide something to talk about if the conversation flags over dinner.

And the new owners are certainly still packing 'em in. Despite having booked four days in advance, we were shown to a table which looked as if it had been pushed in at the last minute. In fact, it was so close to the next table that I could quite happily listen to their conversation without any effort at all.

It was also interestingly close to the swing door to the kitchen - our conversation punctuated by the raised voices of the waiters shouting their orders to the chefs. It was easy to image the steamy scene and speculate whether we'd overhear some Gordon Ramsay-style language. But no expletives here, just a legion of quiet and efficient staff bearing away an amazing number of dishes.

And it is in the food that the Crab and Lobster not only retains, but also enhances, its reputation. On the previous occasions I've eaten here I found the cooking a little too fussy - too much style over content - but now the menu seems less pretentious and is, I think, better for it.

When it came to choosing my starter I was momentarily swayed by the deep-fried Thai crab cakes, which came with soft noodle salad, lime and sweet chilli, but mussels are a great favourite of mine and, with a choice of two variations on the menu, the temptation was too great.

I went for the plainer option of steamed Scottish mussels with garlic, thyme and white wine cream (£6) and they certainly didn't disappoint. The mussels - a huge, rockface of a plateful - were some of the plumpest and sweetest I have ever tasted and the liquor, mopped up with some cheese-topped bread, was almost a course in itself. The alternative was stir-fried mussels with leeks, spring onions, coriander and curry cream (also £6).

Peter choose the "chunky soup" of British fish and shellfish with cheese, aioli and garlic croutons. And when they said chunky they meant it. This wasn't for the girlies; in fact there was so much fish in the bowl you'd have been better equipped with a net rather than a spoon.

Other starters included Belikers smoked salmon (£9); baked Queenie scallops with Gruyre, Cheddar, garlic and lemon (£7.50 for six); twice-baked Ribblesdale goats' cheese souffl with toasted pinenut and apple salad and Scrumpy reduction (£6.50); and, for the serious bon viveur, Loch Fyne oysters at £8.50 for six, £12.50 nine and £17 twelve.

For my main course I choose the fish pie with prawns and scallops under a cheddar, potato and crab crust (£13), which was delicious, but disappointingly served in an individual, and blistering hot, dish resting on a paper doily.

So what, in polite society, is the right thing to do with one of these dishes? Risk first degree burns by turning out the pie onto your plate, or delicately eat it out of the dish with a fork - and then what do you do with the vegetables, in this case a delightful mix of buttered greens? For the record, I went for the first option.

So if there was the crab, now for the lobster. Peter's choice of roast garlic lobster with king prawns and Queenie scallops (£17.50) came with really good, thick, home-made chips and Barnaise sauce and was pronounced "a veritable feast".

Other choices were a paella of chicken, seafood and shellfish (£28 for two people); braised Moroccan lamb shank, dried fruit cous cous, cucumber and mint yoghurt (£14.50); "posh" fish and chips, served with crushed peas and lobster tartare sauce (£16); and fillet of wild seabass, stuffed with crab, pinenuts, raisins and pancetta (£16.50).

Sadly, despite our best intentions, we were unable to manage pudding and opted instead for coffee and chocolates.

The bill for two, with two drinks from the bar, came to £50 - good value for a delightful meal and an entertaining evening.