WALKING through humid jungle pathways to reach the tree-covered remains of a Cambodian temple, it is easy to imagine the excitement of the explorers who rediscovered it over 100 years ago.

Ta Prohm was built in the 12th century and its beautifully carved stones have been left as they were found - with huge trunks and creepers growing amongst them. It used to be home to thousands of monks but now tourists are free to wander around its atmospheric courtyards.

As tourism has developed in Cambodia, so has access to historic sites and this is one of the many temples in the Siem Reap area providing a fascinating glimpse of the country's history.

The most famous of them is Angkor Wat, which took 385,000 workers, 40,000 elephants and 40 years to build. It claims to be the largest religious monument in the world and although its scale is truly impressive, the carved reliefs which line its corridors are equally astonishing.

Many of them tell stories from Hindu legends so it is helpful to have a guide on hand. Fin, who showed us around, pointed out the exact spots where the temple scenes from ''Tomb Raider'' were filmed. Almost as stunning is the nearby Bayon Temple which has 216 huge carved faces looking out from every angle.

There is no public transport between the sites but our minibus tour included ten temples in four days. Intense heat outside made its air conditioned coolness a treat.

The most common forms of transport are bicycles and heavily-laden mopeds. We saw one with four passengers on board, and another with three dead pigs strapped to the back.

Families living in the floating village on Tonle Sap lake use small wooden boats to get around and we spent an enjoyable afternoon chugging past schools, shops and homes on a slightly bigger version.

All our meals were included, but we were taken to different restaurants each day. Cambodian food is similar to Thai food but not as spicy. The same dishes appear frequently - spring rolls, a fish dish called Amok and noodles with pork or beef are favourites.

The appeal of archaeological treasures has brought dozens of hotels, restaurants and bars to the small town of Siem Reap in recent years - but only one set of traffic lights. From there it is a 40-minute flight to the bustling capital Phnom Penh, and three nights at the Cambodiana Hotel with great views of the Mekong, Bassac and Tonle Sap rivers.

Nearby is the colourful Royal Palace with gleaming golden spires and the Silver Pagoda - its floor made up of more than 5,000 silver blocks weighing nearly six tonnes. The National Museum around the corner houses some of the statues from the Siem Reap temples and sells copies of some of its exhibits.

Keen shoppers will also find plenty of cheap silk, sculptures, T-shirts and other souvenirs at the Central or Russian markets. The local currency is the riel but US dollars are used everywhere.

The restaurants here offer a wider range of food and several have pretty first floor balconies for outdoor meals. Many are in the attractive colonial buildings lining Sisowath Quay on the main riverbank.

For a chilling insight into Cambodia's more recent history we went to the S21 Tuol Sleng museum. The former school was used as a prison and torture centre by the Khmer Rouge in the 1970s and the photos of some of the thousands of men, women and children taken from there to be killed give some idea of what the Cambodian people endured under Pol Pot's regime.

Further out of town is the Choeung Ek extermination camp where a tower of remembrance houses the skulls of victims buried in the ''killing fields".

After a fascinating week in Cambodia we went for a complete change of pace - flying via Bangkok to Krabi in neighbouring Thailand.

The coastal scenery here is stunning and we spent lazy days by the pool at the Sheraton Krabi Beach Resort. The hotel has shuttle buses to the nearby town of Ao Nang where we had delicious seafood and found more souvenirs.

Trips to the dramatic limestone bays nearby can be arranged with the local longtail boat owners who moor on the beaches. They take you on a tour and wait as long as you want at each island for about £20.

Before arriving in Cambodia we began our trip with two days at the Marriott resort and spa in Bangkok. It couldn't have been more of a contrast to laid-back Krabi. The city's sparkling Grand Palace and adjoining royal temple are breathtaking but it is also worth getting a glimpse of everyday life on a canal tour.

Near the notorious Patpong area, with its fake-filled night market, we found a restaurant called Prik Kee Noo - where five dishes and two large beers came to under £10.

Having got the taste for Thai food we tried the cooking course on offer at our hotel. For around £20, a chef takes you on a tour of a local market and then prepares five dishes in a lovely outdoor kitchen in the hotel overlooking the Chao Praya.

We even got to keep our aprons and relished our creations in one of the hotel restaurants.

TRAVELFACTS

* Charlotte travelled with Kuoni Travel (01306 747 008 or www.kuoni.co.uk) on the 14-night Cambodia Discovery Tour.

* It includes two nights room-only at Bangkok Marriott Resort & Spa, four nights full-board at the City Angkor Hotel (or similar) in Siem Reap, three nights full board at Cambodiana Hotel in Phnom Penh and five nights B&B at Sheraton Krabi Beach Resort.

* Including flights with Thai Airways and transfers, and local guide for the Cambodia section which includes excursions, the package starts at £1,868 per person (two sharing).