MOST of Gordon Ramsay's dishes come liberally sprinkled with insults, garnished with swearing and topped off with general abuse, as a dozen hapless celebrity chefs discovered in ITV1's Hell's Kitchen.
But for those of us who love his cooking but don't want to risk stomaching his tirades, his latest cookbook, Gordon Ramsay's Secrets, offers us the chance to taste at a safe distance.
''The idea is that each recipe illustrates a particular skill, highlights the supply of an ingredient or a special technique,'' explains the chef.
''Work your way through the recipes and you should greatly improve your culinary knowledge and skill.''
Recipes run from the reasonably simple, such as pan-fried salmon with bacon and red wine sauce, to the fiendishly complex - rabbit in pancetta with barley and kidney risotto.
But even for those who aren't triple Michelin-starred chefs, like Ramsay, all the dishes are achievable. And the names of the recipes - navarin of venison, smoked haddock and asparagus open ravioli - are sure to impress the most discerning dinner party guests.
The secret of success, he says, is down to three things: ''High quality ingredients, the skill and dedication of the chef, and the techniques you use.''
KNICKERBOCKER GLORIES
(serves 4-6)
ORANGE JELLY
700ml fresh orange juice
2-3 tablespoons icing sugar
3 sheets leaf gelatine (or 2 teaspoons powdered gelatine)
PANNA COTTA
4 sheets leaf gelatine (or 3 teaspoons powdered gelatine)
600ml double cream
150ml milk
150g caster sugar
grated zest of 1 orange
2 tablespoons white rum (optional)
TO SERVE
75-100g strawberries, finely chopped
6-8 amaretti biscuits, crushed
2 ripe peaches, thinly sliced
8-10 small scoops of good quality vanilla ice cream
dried pineapple and star fruit slices (optional)
For the jelly, put the orange juice into a pan with the icing sugar to taste and boil to reduce to about 500ml. Meanwhile, soak the gelatine leaves in cold water until softened. (Or soak powdered gelatine in two tablespoons cold water until spongy).
Remove the gelatine leaves from the cold water and squeeze out excess water, then slide them into the hot orange liquid (or add the softened gelatine) and stir briskly until dissolved. Cool to room temperature. Pour two tablespoons into each glass and chill until set. Pour the rest into a shallow bowl and chill until set.
For the panna cotta, soak the gelatine leaves in cold water until floppy. (Or soak powdered gelatine in two tablespoons cold water until spongy).
Slowly bring the cream and milk to the boil in a large saucepan, stirring. Lower the heat and bubble gently for about five minutes to reduce by about a third. Remove the gelatine leaves from the cold water and squeeze out excess water. Take the pan off the heat, stir in the sugar and orange zest, then slide in the gelatine (or add the softened gelatine), stirring until dissolved. Cool slightly, then mix in the rum, if using. Transfer to a bowl and set aside to cool.
Pour two tablespoons of panna cotta on top of the set jelly in each glass and chill to set. Pour the rest into a shallow bowl and chill until set.
Turn the set jelly out of the shallow bowl onto a sheet of baking parchment and chop finely, using a sharp knife dipped in cold water. Add a thin layer of finely chopped strawberries to each glass, then a layer of chopped jelly.
Stir the softly set panna cotta in the bowl, then spoon a layer on top of the chopped jelly. Add crushed amaretti, then arrange the peach slices on top. Finally, as a crowning glory, top the peaches with two scoops of vanilla ice cream and finish with dried fruit slices or sliced strawberries. Serve immediately.
LEMON AND BLACKBERRY CREAM POTS
(serves six)
397g can Carnation condensed milk
finely grated zest of three lemons
300ml (half a pint) water
4 egg yolks
250g (9oz) fresh blackberries (or blueberries or raspberries)
150ml (quarter pint) whipping cream
To serve:
Lemon zest
extra blackberries
icing sugar
Place the Carnation condensed milk, lemon zest and water into a pan. Mix well and bring to the boil. Remove from the heat and whisk the hot milk into the egg yolks. Return to the pan and cook over a low heat to form a light custard. Cool slightly and stir in the cream.
Arrange most of the blackberries in the base of four china pots or cups, reserving a few for garnish. Pour in the thickened custard and chill in the fridge.
To serve, place a few reserved blackberries on top of the custard, sprinkle with lemon zest and sugar.
l Gordon Ramsay's Secrets by Gordon Ramsay (Quadrille, £25)
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