Marks & Spencer may be ailing but the lastest collection from per una is just what the doctor ordered. Women's Editor Christen Pears enjoys a sneak preview.

MARKS & Spencer has been hitting the headlines recently - for all the wrong reasons. With falling profits, boardroom reshuffles and a takeover bid, the former high street favourite is struggling. There is, however, one bright spot on the darkening horizon - per una, the womenswear range by George Davies.

du, the recently-launched per una spin-off collection, has received mixed reviews. Its street-inspired styling, aimed at 18 to 25-year-olds, doesn't sit well with the store's traditional image, but the main per una range has really come of age.

Launched in September 2001, per una was an attempt to attract the younger age group, women M&S had been losing to stores like Next and Top Shop. George's credentials were impeccable: he had created the George at Asda range and was one of the masterminds behind Next. per una was a huge success from the start.

It has constantly been one of M&S' top performers in terms of sales, although it has evolved since then and now appeals to slightly older customers, while Due caters for the trendier end of the market.

Rachel Bishop, head of PR for per una, says: "per una has grown and developed and it's now aimed at the 25 to 35-year-old woman. It also attracts the core M&S customer. It's not a question of 'you're 55 so you can't shop at per una', there are key pieces that older women can wear."

The new Autumn/Winter collection, which was unveiled last week, will mark George Davies' third year with M&S, and it's all about grown-up, ladylike style. Gone are the ruffles and ribbons that have abounded in previous seasons, and in their place are chic and glamorous clothes inspired by the latest catwalk trends.

One of the key looks is modern tailoring - suits and separates with strong masculine lines. Slim-fitting single-breasted jackets are teamed with wide trousers to create a contemporary take on a classic look.

The collection also takes inspiration from the 1970s trend for thrift store chic. Chunky knits and cords have shades of Farrah Fawcett in her heyday.

In complete contrast is the trend for ladylike, retro glamour. The bias-cut silhouette of the 1930s features strongly, while wasp waists and full skirts hark back to the 1950s. The pencil skirt is still in vogue, as are the tweeds that seemed to be everywhere last winter.

Rachel says: "It's definitely more grown-up. We've got rid of all the ruffles and appliqu, although there is still a lot of emphasis on the detail."

Collezione Italia, for example, is a capsule collection manufactured in Italy. The fabrics are luxurious and beautifully cut and carefully finished. One coat has six buttons - all similar in design but each subtly different. Elsewhere in the range, there are delicate velvet and ribbon trims, embroidery and sequins.

Key pieces include the poncho, available in a range of colours, and a long cardigan coat that can be layered with tweed trousers, or jeans for a more casual look. The tie dye velvet jacket is a new twist on a wardrobe staple. Carrying over from the summer, green continues to be a strong colour, in shades from lime to khaki. Soft greys and pinks, chocolate brown and hot pink and turquoise are also key colours.

The clich of something for everyone really does seem to apply. Younger customers will go mad for the rainbow-coloured poncho while the more classic tweeds and boucle jackets will appeal to older customers.

Rachel says: "per una is a very successful range at Marks & Spencer. It has been since its launch and it will be for some time."

That can only be good news for shoppers, and for M&S.