STANHOPE, a town with a long and proud history, is justifiably called the capital of Weardale. Before we start our walk from the admirably designed Durham Dales Centre, once the pleasure gardens of the nearby castle, have a look at the nearby fossil tree, now set in the wall of the churchyard. It was found in a quarry near Edmundbyers and is said to be over 250 million years old.
In the churchyard you will find the old market cross and inside the 1lth century church are more treasures, including a Roman altar set up by Tetius Veturius Micianus to the god Silvanus for helping him to kill a wild boar when others had failed to do so.
Near the entrance door is the highly polished font made of local Frosterley marble, a black, heavily fossilised limestone. It was the extraction of this and other minerals which made Stanhope so wealthy two centuries ago and we shall see much evidence of this activity on our route which takes us into leafy valleys and up on to open moorland
Go right after leaving the Dales Centre and walk a quarter of a mile along the main road past the town hall and the police station. Beyond the road to Tow Law (B 6278), Stanhope Burn is crossed. Turn right at the next footpath sign along the stream side. On the left is Stanhope Hall, a huge fortified manor house of medieval origin with later additions. Next on the left is Hall Mill, now looking forlorn and dilapidated after giving centuries of service.
The path soon begins to climb through the delightful woodland of Dene, leaving the stream far below. In a quarter of a mile the path returns to the stream side and then repeats the process by rising and staying well above the valley before turning west high above the rocky cleft of the Reahope Burn. The fields on the left are scarred with mine and quarry workings, the booty from which must have led to the building of the massive bridge over the gorge just ahead, Cross it to reach the isolated farm of Shield Hurst. From here there are sweeping views back down to Stanhope and Weardale.
Continue past the farm and go right at a junction to return to the valley floor and the sad buildings of a fluorspar mine which closed in the Sixties. In this tranquil spot it is amazing to think that over the years hundreds of workers must once have toiled. Both lead and iron ore were mined in the valley and a lead smelting mill used to operate near the fluorspar mine. Our route now climbs as a track to the left of the largest building and soon bears left to a gate. Beyond it go right, up the side of Heathery Burn on what is known as the Velvet Path for its smooth surface of turf. Leave the track after about 300 yards where the accompanying wall turns down to the stream. Near here in 1859 was discovered the famous Heathery Burn Hoard of Late Bronze Age swords, axes, gold ornaments and other artefacts, now in the British Museum.
Having crossed the burn, continue along the wall side as it climbs the opposite bank. The path soon flattens out and, in a quarter of a mile passes through a series of gates to reach the B 6278. Cross it and look over the wall on the left at the remains of the remarkable Crawley Side incline which was opened as early as 1834 to carry lime from the many nearby limestone quarries across the moors to ironworks on the Tyne and later at Tow Law. What you are looking at is the incline as it emerges uphill into a cutting from a tunnel which passed under the road behind you.
We now continue across the moor on the top of the crags of Crawley Edge, Stanhope lies below as do the impressive remains of the quarries for which the town was famous. Ignore the two paths which descend into this huge area which has now greened over and is accessible to the public, and continue ahead for half a mile until the path begins a gentle descent, leaving some ruins behind a wall on the left. 100 yards beyond this enclosure go straight ahead on a stone track to a gate. Turn right here down a tarred lane, (which as a short cut will lead directly back down into Stanhope). In about 50 yards go left in front of Jollybody Farm on a path which crosses two meadows to reach the ravine of Shittlehope Burn. Follow the short steep path which drops down to cross the stream. Just downstream, and visible from the bridge are limestone caves called the Fairy Holes.
Our path is now down the left bank of the burn through dense foliage and past numerous seats which indicate how popular this most attractive dene has been over the years. After a quarter of a mile the path emerges close to the ancient farm of Shittlehope. The burn is re-crossed and after one field Woodcroft Gardens is reached. Go left here to the main A 689.
Stanhope lies a half a mile to the right, but a more pleasant return route. although a little longer, is to turn left past the Weardale bus garage and then first right towards the river Wear. In about 200 yards take a path to the right and cross two fields and then the newly refurbished Weardale Railway. It was opened in 1862 but fell into disuse years before the recent closure of the Eastgate Cement Works further up the valley. Now restored with Heritage Lottery funds, the line is once more carrying passengers between Wolsingham and Stanhope and there are plans to extend the service. Look out for the finely renovated Victorian station just up the track on the right. Beyond the railway go to the left of the football posts in the field ahead and through one gate before re-crossing the track. A short walk along the riverside will bring you to The Butts named for the archery practice grounds of many centuries ago. A turn right brings you to the Market Place and the adjacent Dales Centre.
Conditions are generally good with one short climb from the fluorspar mine. The Shittlehope Burn path can be slippery after rain
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