Thirsk's hidden gem has Mediterranean theme

Tucked away up-Baker's Alley, one of the market town's many such alleyways or ginnels, the bistro is a welcome alternative to the many pubs around the Market Square.

Many of the pubs serve up first-class pub grub and the Golden Fleece offers a traditional hotel fare.

But walk through the bright orange doorway of the bistro and you could easily believe you had strolled into a continental caf.

The decor, designed by owner Vicky Charles' sister Rose, is a mixture of art deco and a rustic Mediterranean with draped curtains, candles, arty lighting and painted walls, a blackboard menu, wooden and tiled floors.

At the small reception area diners can have a pre-meal drink on the velvet cushioned seating at a small table.

I first met Vicky and chef Barbara Matula, who also has an interest in the business, when I first came to Thirsk three years ago. I liked the unusual, but unpretentious decor, the quality wine and the Mediterranean-style food and atmosphere - and it remains a favourite eating place.

I liked it so much that even though it is a no-smoking establishment and I still use the dreaded weed, the overall experience of the food and ambience keeps me going back like many of the regular customers.

It is small (32 covers) giving a cosy atmosphere.

The bistro struggled for the first two years until a regular clientele could be established. Now it is going great guns with Vicky and Barbara planning a long-term extension in the upstairs rooms which they hope to start work on next year.

The premises are part of what was once a hotel, the Royal Oak, and the present bistro area is in the old hotel kitchens.

"Upstairs is huge, lending itself to our plans to open up a restaurant for tea dances; corporate entertainment and space for an art gallery as there are high walls to fill," said Vicky.

Vicky worked as a customer services manager for Amdega Conservatories in Darlington before she opened the bistro. "I had always enjoyed cooking and friends and family often suggested that I should do it professionally. So, mid-life, I bit the bullet, and here I am."

Barbara, who ran an antiques business in Thirsk, joined Vicky three years ago after working for a spell at the Old Oak Tree, South Kilvington. Between them they like to keep introducing new dishes.

Barbara said: "I don't like to dress up my dishes with sauces which are too strong, but I do like to give them a continental flavour."

Her newest recipe was being tried out this week - a goats' cheese and potato pie.

My guest was on a strict diet. Could Barbara rise to the occasion without compromising her creativity and my friend's calorie counting?

We had a choice of two courses from a special menu for £9.99 or special main dishes or a combination of both.

Opting for a vegetarian starter fitted the bill for my guest. She chose a "very tasty" roasted vegetable terrine consisting of peppers, red onion, aubergines and spices.

Ignoring the calories, I opted for home-made pate on a bed of mixed salad leaves with redcurrants and blackberry sauce. Both starters were presented so artistically it seemed a shame to put a fork in and spoil the arrangement.

For the main course my guest chose a fillet steak au poivre - but without the sauce which she usually loves but her diet forbid (£15.95) I chose the same but with the sauce.

Again the presentation was colourful and appetising. The tender and perfectly-cooked steaks were cut into small pieces and stacked on salad leaves accompanied by a roast tomato and mushrooms and topped with a roast garlic crouton.

The portions were ample but not over-facing.

Accompanying the steaks were a generous dish of fresh vegetables which included cauliflower, carrots, broccoli, and separates dishes of mashed potatoes and home-made chips and a bread bun.

From the main menu, for starters we could have chosen feta cheese and olive salad (£4.50); green-lipped mussels with cream and white wine (£5.50) or spicy beef and vegetable soup (£3.90). I have tried this before and it is very spicy and filling, nearly a meal in itself with huge chunks of meat and vegetables, including potatoes.

For mains other choices included rack of lamb with bubble and squeak; Gressingham duck breast cooked in a Pernod and berry sauce or salmon steak topped with Italian pesto and pecorino cheese (all £15.95); chicken breast wrapped in bacon and filled with chorizo and brie, served with a tomato and basil sauce (£12.95).

Had we been eating the £9.99 menu other starters included toasted goats' cheese salad or prawn mayonnaise salad; mains included rib eye steak in a pepper sauce; bacon-stuffed breast of chicken; Thai fishcakes with a sweet chilli sauce or the vegetarian choice, wild rice with honeyed vegetables.

We couldn't manage a sweet, which was a pity as those we saw brought to other tables looked mouth watering. We turned down jam roly poly, champagne trifle tart, summer fruit pudding (all £3.95) and the cheeseboard (£5.25).

We drank the very acceptable house red and Perrier water but noted the interesting, varied and well priced wine list. Unlike many restaurants, a water jug and glasses were automatically provided.

Lunchtime menus include sandwiches (from £3.50) made with home made bread buns, or hot meals (£5.25) including a traditional roast, fish pie, fish cakes, or sausages and mash.

Every so often country-themed nights are held featuring authentic food and wine. Telephone for details