I RECKON the way to get the best out of Thai food is to leave the choice to the experts.

Many people probably fall into the trap of opting for something on the menu which looks familiar.

Unfortunately, there is a huge risk that the resultant dish will be similar to its Cantonese counterpart.

That has certainly been my experience in the Thai restaurants I have visited.

And an outing to Phutawan - Darlington's new addition to the dining out scene - was not really an exception.

In retrospect, I wish I had gone for one of the set meals offered by this fledgling business.

Tagged "Royal Thai Cuisine", there is a choice of four set menus ranging from £14.95 to £22.95 per person.

And these appear to offer a more realistic insight into what Thai food is all about, providing a variety of starters, the well-known Tom Yum soups, meat and fish dishes and Thai curries you might skip over on the regular menu.

A section specialising in 'Thai country foods' might also have been a better option.

As it was, we ordered as a starter deep-fried king prawn with honey and breadcrumbs served with sweet and sour sauce.

At £5.95, there was enough for two. But one of the skewered prawns was a little on the cold side.

For mains, I had stir-fried beef with vegetables served sizzling on a platter. This had a real kick and flavour to it and cost £9.95.

To go with it I had coconut rice which was light and dry and kept nice and warm in its own covered dish.

My guest chose stir-fried chicken with ginger, Chinese mushrooms and spring onions. Price £7.50.

Apparently, the chicken was a bit bland and the ginger also lacked bite.

And the one foray into the unknown - a side order of "sticky rice" - did not work. My guest found this hard to eat as it had to be cut into chunks from its bamboo basket.

We shared a plate of stir-fried seasonal vegetables which were good.

I wanted to try Truffle au Chocolate for dessert but this was not available and so we had one of a choice of several speciality ice creams - a delicious rum and raisin - followed by coffee.

The total bill - including a bottle of white wine at £12.95 - was £51.

In general, starters range from £3.95 to £10.95 for steamed scallops; soups cost from £3.50 to £8.95 and mains range from £5.95 to £20.95 for lobster.

Occupying the premises of the former Cottage Thai restaurant, Phutawan only opened on September 15.

Master chef Pong Donchai has more than 35 years experiences with Thai food, working in countries such as Japan and Hong Kong.

Managing director is Chusak Phetmalaikul and the venture was put together by Charoen Srilapan, who has worked in hotels worldwide.

Mr Phetmalaikul is confident the new restaurant will be a success. And judging by the number of people dining on its first Sunday, he could well be right.

The place was steadily busy and guests included a party of Chinese people from Newton Aycliffe.

"We have been busy ever since we opened," he said. "We offer good food, authentic Thai food and quality service. My team is keen to make this the best restaurant in Darlington."

Phutawan offers business lunch specials at £6.95 for three courses, a "happy hour" for people heading for the Civic Theatre and a corporate cuisine service.

And for those looking for a celebration, Mr Srilapan specialises in champagne and cocktails.

The premises have been completely re-fitted to create a smart, yet welcoming, atmosphere. The chairs are comfortable and table settings a credit to the staff.

The menu itself is a beautiful glossy book which gives the Thai term for the food item, a description and the actual Thai lettering of its name.

Service and presentation of food was impeccable and everyone received a scented candle as a gift upon leaving.

There is a lot to recommend Phutawan. I would certainly go again but be more adventurous next time.

The mystery is, my sister-in-law is Thai and I have never found a restaurant here which produces anything remotely resembling the food she cooks at home.

Equally, on a recent visit to Thailand the restaurant meals were completely different from those offered in the UK.

But Mr Phetmalaikul was spot on about one thing. He said Thai food is noted for its health-giving qualities. And after two weeks on the rice-based diet in that country I certainly noticed an improvement in my general well-being.

So Thai cooking must be doing something right.